The Oxy-Dripper/Brummie Bubbler utilises a 90 litre tank to accommodate the nutrient solution as well as the several air stones needed for aerating it, and on top of this sits a 15 litre sub-surface tray filled with pebbles and a drip ring that provides a constant flow of nutrient direct to the top of the root zone. Once the roots are established the bubbler aspect comes more into play and the oxygen rich environment inevitably leads to a massive increase in nutrient uptake and explosive growth and plant development.

	Code		Price	Qty
	1861	Oxy-Dripper System (Brummie Bubbler)	£49.95		Add to Basket

Setting up the Oxy-Dripper/Brummie Bubbler

From first impressions you might expect the system to be difficult to set up and use, but that’s certainly not the case! Putting it together takes less than an hour, even for the slightly slower, more considered and methodical grower.

Two plug sockets are required – one for the air pump and one for the nutrient pump. This is in addition to the outlets you will need for your light and extraction systems so ensure that you have enough available in the surrounding area. An extension lead is ideal here because it lets you place a group of four sockets exactly where you want them (like just outside your tent).

	Code		Price	Qty
	0599	Extension Lead	£6.95		Add to Basket

To start with you must drill some holes into the sub-surface tray that will eventually sit in the reservoir. These enable the watered-down feed flowing through the drip ring to easily return to the tank and later on allow the roots to grow into the highly aerated nutrient solution provided by the bubbler. The number of holes you choose to drill is a matter of personal preference, but we recommend a generous spread. Once the drilling has been completed, ensure any plastic burrs are removed and give the sub surface tray a quick clean.

The next stage is to prepare the drip ring. More than enough flexi pipe comes included with the kit for this process – measure out and cut the length you require and then pierce several holes for the nutrient to drip through.

	Code		Price	Qty
	0176	Hole Punch	£0.85		Add to Basket

You may also wish to use nipples to ensure the nutrient flows at a constant rate.

	Code		Price	Qty
	0722	Standard Nipple 4mm	£0.25		Add to Basket

Attach the pierced pipe to the Tee piece to make a loop, checking that the holes face downwards. To the remaining barbed outlet add a length of pipe capable of reaching the edge of the tank and then fix this to the barbed elbow.

	Code		Price	Qty
	0555	Greenblade Quality Trimming Scissors	£7.95		Add to Basket

Cut the remaining length of pipe to reach the pump (which will be submerged at the bottom of the tank) and attach it to the other end of the elbow. You now have the drip ring element of the system!

Installing the aeration kit couldn’t be easier. All that you do is cut the air pipe to the desired length, connect one end to the air pump and the other to the air stone (and repeat for the second air stone), place the air stones in the bottom of the tank and the pump somewhere out of the way of the reservoir, and finally plug in the pump.

At this point we recommend positioning the nutrient pump inside the reservoir, attaching the drip ring to it and putting the plug in the socket (still switched off for now).

As far as setting up the system goes, that is pretty much it. All that is required now is to fill the sub surface tray with some well washed clay pebbles and have it ready rest it on the top of the tank.

	Code		Price	Qty
	0082	Clay Pebbles - 45 Litres	£14.95		Add to Basket

Before putting everything in place you should definitely check that each of the system components works as intended – to do this for the pumps half fill the nutrient tank with de-chlorinated water. You won’t want the water level reaching the bottom of the sub surface tray and instead aim to have it falling just below. Once the tank has been filled, turn on the air pump and the nutrient pump to ensure they operate properly and look to see that a sufficient flow of nutrient solution flows through the drip ring.

There we have it! A functioning, ready-to-use Oxy-Dripper/Brummie Bubbler!

The final steps are to make up and pH-adjust the nutrient solution and add a rooted cutting or seedling to the sub surface tray. Unlike with other drip systems, there is no need to hand water the plant during the initial stages of growth as the drip ring will provide sufficient nutrient to develop the roots.

	Code		Price	Qty
	7520	Accuread pH Meter	£39.95		Add to Basket

We advise that you cover the exposed parts of the nutrient tank. In this example two pieces of correx from an NFT Gro-Tank 205 GTi have been used because it allows for quick and easy access to the tank, but you can also use Total Blackout sheeting.

	Code		Price	Qty
	0456	Correx Cover Gro-Tank 205 GTi	£2.50		Add to Basket

All you need to do now is maintain the nutrient solution and watch as the plant grows and develops into a monster!

	Code		Price	Qty
	1861	Oxy-Dripper System (Brummie Bubbler)	£49.95		Add to Basket

If only…

Ideally there would already be lamps in existence that produce really high levels of powerful light whilst simultaneously keeping heat output down to an undetectable amount. Such a design means you could then fully utilize 100% of the energy generated, hanging the lamps directly above the plants (having them as close as possible stops any light from escaping and being wasted). Although some people argue LED technology does what is described here, the evidence continues to suggest otherwise through poor results.

The tried and tested

At present the majority of people use High Intensity Discharge (HID) lamps for the main part of a grow cycle and fluorescent lights during propagation.

HID lamps can be subdivided into Dual Spectrum Sodium (for vegetative growth and flowering), Standard Sodium (for flowering) and Metal Halide (for vegetative growth), and are available in 250 Watt, 400 Watt, 600 Watt and 1000 Watt versions. It’s true that the greater the rating of wattage the greater the level of light and heat, but all of these lamps will burn brightly over 4-9 months and become hot when operating. Consequently you must carefully consider their hanging position in relation to the tops of plants. Our recommendations for good practice are below.

Recommended Hanging Heights for HID Lamps

If you want to locate a propagator under a main light, position your home for clones off centre so that the small plants enjoy some protection.

Germinated seeds will grow under any size of light, but keep 600 Watt and 1000 Watt lights at least 150cm away for a few days until the plants have hardened off a bit.

	Code		Price	Qty
	0270	600 Watt SOLAAR Dual Spectrum Lamp	£22.95		Add to Basket

Recommended Hanging Heights for Fluorescent Lamps

Fluorescent lights like the Eco-Light and T5HO Sunblaster are a lot less powerful than HID lamps but only tend to kick out a little bit of heat. The lower levels of light perfectly suits cuttings and seedlings in propagators – you will have no issues maintaining a very short distance between your young plants and one of these units.

Eco-Lights prove to be slightly more powerful fluorescent models than those using T5 technology and should therefore take up a position further away from propagator tops – say about 80cm.

	Code		Price	Qty
	1587	125 Watt Blue Eco-Light	£19.95		Add to Basket
	1588	125 Watt Red Eco-Light	£19.95		Add to Basket

Most single strip fluorescent lights work well from 10cm to 40cm above a propagator, or in the case of the T5HO Sunblaster Light, sat upon the propagator lid itself. If you want to suspend a single strip T5 light directly above cuttings and seedlings, the optimum distance is 10cm.

	Code		Price	Qty
	5065	T5HO Sunblaster Propagation Light Complete	£21.95	Out of stock

	Code		Price	Qty
	1785	T5 Propagation Grow Light 2-Tube	£59.95		Add to Basket
	1780	T5 Propagation Grow Light 4-Tube	£129.95		Add to Basket
	1781	T5 Propagation Grow Light 8-Tube	£169.95		Add to Basket

Reflector Selector

Your choice of reflector also impacts upon the potential positioning of a lamp and indeed the overall spread of light.

Flexible, open-end models like the Adjust-a-Wing Avenger and Adjust-a-Wing Enforcer feature “wings” that can be manipulated to change the focus of light and thereby facilitate closer interaction with plants.

Air-cooled units are the same in terms of allowing for a particularly effective hanging height, since the constant blowing of air past the lamp significantly reduces temperatures in this area.

Accessories and additions

Attaching a heat shield to your reflector will help deflect heat away from right underneath the lamp and also works to spread light. This neat and cheap little accessory lets growers using reflectors not necessarily designed for low hanging heights (e.g. Proxima Euro and Prima Klima Optomiser) safely suspend them nearer to their plants.

	Code		Price	Qty
	0882	Heat Shield Small (250 Watt - 600 Watt)	£14.95		Add to Basket

The LightRail constantly moves your source of light across a 1.8m stretch of track above the plant canopy and can be instructed to only stop for short periods of time at either end, ruling out the chance of burning foliage if you decide to have the lamp adopt a low hanging height. It even makes 1000 Watt lamps a suitable option for many growers, which we normally think twice about recommending due to the heat they produce alongside the incredibly intense beams of light.

	Code		Price	Qty
	0584	LightRail 3.5 Smart Drive Complete Kit	£175.00		Add to Basket

Given that this is an article on hanging heights, it only seems right to end on the choice of devices open to you for suspending your light.

Quite incredibly Exolux Ezi-Roll Light Hangers are not much more expensive than using chain and s-hooks, offering strong and reliable support for most systems.

	Code		Price	Qty
	1520	Exolux Ezi-Roll Light Hangers (pair)	£8.45		Add to Basket

However the best product for the job has to be the Exolux Rope Ratchet Heavy Duty Light Hangers - which will comfortably support any of the reflectors from our range!

	Code		Price	Qty
	1522	Exolux Rope Ratchet Heavy Duty Hangers	£9.95		Add to Basket

]]> http://www.growell.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/HID-web-150x150.jpg Thu, 14 Mar 2013 15:12:27 +0000 For those of you that are new to hydroponics and indoor gardening, a number of the terms can seem complicated and unclear – with “aeration” being one classic example. Although the reasons and science behind the process of adding oxygen to your nutrient solutions appears somewhat complex, often the mechanics involved in achieving a high and desirable rate of aeration actually demands very little from you. We’ll now take a closer look at what you need to do.

Whether you are hand watering in soil or coco, or have an active hydroponics system, you should first leave your water to stand and dechlorinate for a few hours before adding nutrients – this removes the chlorine and other existing additives through dissipation. At the same time it is recommended that you begin aerating the water with a suitably sized air pump, appropriate lengths of air line and the necessary amounts of air stones. A very affordable means of getting the right equipment is by selecting from our Aeration Kits, and the smallest and most popular of these costs just £7.95. To complete the set up, you plug in the air pump, attach the air line to the outlet and each air stone, pop the air stone(s) in your bucket, switch on the mains and then watch the bubbles go! That’s it! When you come to add the nutrients the water will be well and truly oxygenated.

If you are growing with an active system the air stone should sit in your tank to provide a constant supply of oxygen. There is also the added benefit of the nutrient solution being constantly mixed to ensure that your plants get the best possible feeds delivered to them.

Having dealt with the how, it’s obviously important to consider the why. So… Why must you strive to introduce oxygen into your nutrient solution? What benefits are on offer and what happens if you fail to establish an aeration system?

After illustrating just how simple and cheap it is to aerate your nutrient solution, the following list of advantages will surely be convincing enough to see you joining the ever-increasing ranks of growers that resort to bubbling away!

Dechlorinisation

Aeration or no aeration, you always need to dechlorinate your water. Chlorine gets added to tap water to prevent a proliferation of bacteria and to control other harmful substances, making it safe for human consumption. While there is scarcely enough chlorine present in tap water to kill a plant outright, performance can still be inhibited. Although leaving the water in an open container will lead to the evaporation of chlorine as a gas, using an air stone accelerates this process and also infuses oxygen into the water. Along with dechlorinisation, the act of letting the water stand over night allows it to get to room temperature and similarly prevents possible shock by introducing coldness to the root zone. Everyone should leave water to dechlorinate before application, and as has been previously stated, you may as well begin bubbling at the same time.

Oxygen

Oxygen is of course present in water regardless of whether you choose to add any or not. Yet whereas oxygen in the atmosphere is constant at around 18%, in water it varies according to the temperature of the water. The warmer the water the less oxygen can be held, so water in the tropics will contain significantly less oxygen than the colder arctic waters. For the typical grow room environment this has great significance because temperatures are purposely kept high to promote optimum conditions. Putting this into context, the oxygen content of a solution at 10 degrees Celsius is around 13 parts per million, increase the temperature to 30 degrees and the oxygen content drops to around 7 ppm. Since most grow rooms operate at around this sort of level the oxygen content does not prove ideal.

Plants use oxygen for respiration, requiring the sugars produced by photosynthesis and oxygen to release energy that then aids overall growth. The less oxygen there is, the less energy can be released and the more the plants performance will be affected.

Potential Problems

Without delving too much into the technical science behind it, a lack of oxygen can cause the plant to not only under perform but may also lead to far more serious situations. These problems tend to occur in hydroponic systems where the roots are exposed (like in the NFT Gro-Tank below) and more reliant on the nutrient solution for their oxygen. Those plants in soil or coco have access to oxygen at the root zone through the tiny air pockets found in the media itself, but that is not to say they steer completely clear of issues. If you over water soil or coco the air pockets will not be available to the roots, so that then like with the hydroponically grown plants, they come to depend on the oxygen in the nutrient solution.

Lack of sufficient oxygen hampers the ability of the plant to respire adequately, but before the consequences of this are explored there is something else to consider. Whilst the amount of oxygen in the solution decreases as the temperature rises, the respiration actually increases. In fact with an established plant the respiration rate will actually double when the temperature rises from 20 to 30 degrees. Consequently even though the available oxygen in the solution drops with the increase in temperature the plant then requires twice the amount.

So what happens to the plant if it does not get sufficient oxygen to the root zone? The first signs are actually quite general and can present themselves as a wilting of the plant during the hottest part of the day. A lack of oxygen affects the plants ability to take on water through the roots, limiting access to vital minerals, reducing the efficiency of performance and increasing stress levels. The wilting will slow the rate of photosynthesis thereby reducing the carbohydrates present. If the levels of oxygen remain low and the plant is unable to take on sufficient nutrients then mineral deficiencies inevitably start to show. Growth becomes stunted, but more importantly so too does the development of the roots. The build up of toxins in the roots because of the inability to take on sufficient water can make the roots weak and cause the cell walls to collapse – signs of when the real problems are about to start.

Pythium

Pythium is every indoor gardener’s worst nightmare, as more often than not it leads to the decimation of an entire crop. Interestingly pythium spores are present in many places, even the cleanest of grow rooms may be home to the destructive pathogens. This in itself does not pose a problem because pythium represents an opportunistic pathogen or a secondary problem, meaning that if the plant features a nice healthy root system the pathogen has nothing to attack. If the root zone is stressed or damaged then the pythium can attack and begin the plant-wrecking process of colonisation – not what you want! So the healthier the root system, the less chance there is of an attack.

Aeration in Action

In nature the water that feeds plants is oxygenated as the rainfall passes through the air during descent. Because the droplets are small, the surface area in relation to volume proves high enough for the water to be sufficiently aerated. This is similar to the principle adopted in aeroponic systems. The hydroponics industry in general has become more centred around highly oxidated nutrient solutions with the recent popularity of aeroponic and bubbler systems, but for those of us who use other systems aerating the nutrient solution can make a massive difference to the health of our root zone and the plant in general. An air stone in the nutrient tank for nft, flood and drain or even irrigation systems will provide a much needed boost of oxygen to the solution. Even those of us who use pots can benefit by aerating the water before hand watering.

Taking all this into account, along with just how simple it is to add oxygen to the solution, the question you have to ask yourself is ‘are your plants getting enough oxygen?’

	Code		Price	Qty
	3360	NFT Aeration Kit 1 (suits NFT Gro-Tank 205 GTi & 424)	£7.95		Add to Basket
	3361	NFT Aeration Kit 2 (suits NFT Gro-Tank 604)	£14.95		Add to Basket
	3362	NFT Aeration Kit 3 (suits NFT Gro-Tank 901 & 1000)	£19.95		Add to Basket

Click here to the read the introduction for this series of articles.

Primary Macronutrients

Element

Nitrogen (N)

Uses within the plant

-       Helps plants form and use proteins, carbohydrates, hormones, chlorophyll, vitamins, enzymes and amino acids

-       Dictates how plants function inside

-       Pushes vegetative growth through the production of new leaves and helps establish the shape and size of the plant through stem development

The presence of nitrogen is vital for enabling the plant to carry out most of its functions.

Mobility

Mobile - easily moved around the plant - deficiency first visible on older leaves because what nitrogen is available can be directed towards supporting new growth.

Signs of Deficiency

A nitrogen deficiency tends to be caused by underfeeding your plants – i.e. you use a very weak nutrient solution for a prolonged period of time and it doesn’t provide the necessary levels of the element.

Signs of a nitrogen deficiency include the following:

-       Short, restricted plants as a result of reduced growth

-       Pale green/yellow leaves (especially on the older foliage but quickly capable of spreading to newer, top leaves if left untreated) that can lead to the undersides of leaves purpling/browning and possibly even dying and dropping off

-       Thin, spindly, purple/brown stems

What to do if you have a deficiency

Slowly increase the strength of your nutrient solutions and also consider using an additive like Vita Link Foliar Feed. By following this advice, you can expect a nitrogen deficient plant to start getting better after about a week. However, affected leaves will not recover from the damage inflicted upon them.

Signs of Excess

Excess nitrogen results from overfeeding your plants – i.e. you use a very strong nutrient solution for a prolonged period of time and it provides too much of the element.

Signs of excess nitrogen include the following:

-       Weak, stunted plants

-       Leaves that are thick, brittle and dark green

-       Disease and bugs due to lack of strength

-       Spindly, frail stems

What to do if you have excess nutrient

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Element

Phosphorous (P)

Uses within the plant

-       Helps plants form and use essential oils, sugars and starches

-       Changes solar energy into chemical energy (photosynthesis)

-       Aids respiration, energy transfer, storage and use of water

-       Boosts root growth and produces increased numbers of fruits that are also of a bigger size

-       Improves the quality of seeds

-       Strengthens plant defenses

The presence of phosphorous is vital for flower and fruit formation.

Mobility

Mobile - easily moved around the plant - deficiency first visible on older leaves because what phosphorous is available can be directed towards supporting new growth.

Signs of Deficiency

A phosphorous deficiency either results from underfeeding your plants (i.e. you use a very weak nutrient solution for a prolonged period of time and it doesn’t provide the necessary levels of the element), from excess amounts of Iron (Fe) or Zinc (Zn) in your nutrient solution, and/or from very acidic conditions reducing the availability of the element.

Signs of a phosphorous deficiency include the following:

-       Slowed/stunted growth leading to small leaves

-       Small and thin stems that can go purple

-       Dark blue-green foliage (tends to occur in older leaves first) that may turn purple, starting on the veins of the undersides of leaves, and then yellow when on the brink of dying (the tips of the leaves die before the change of colour)

-       Purple/black spots on leaves, later spreading to stems

-       Delayed plant maturity (no/slow flowering) and limited fruit and

seed production

Element

Potassium (K)

Uses within the plant

-       Activates enzymes and produces proteins and sugars for building cells and tissue

-       Plays a key role in the process of photosynthesis and plant metabolism

-       Strengthens stems and the overall plant structure for increased resistance to adverse environmental factors

-       Aids the control of water and chemicals within plants

-       Improves the flavour and colour of fruit

The presence of potassium is vital for flower and fruit formation.

Mobility

Mobile - easily moved around the plant - deficiency first visible on older leaves because what potassium is available can be directed towards supporting new growth.

Signs of Deficiency

A potassium deficiency either results from underfeeding your plants (i.e. you use a very weak nutrient solution for a prolonged period of time and it doesn’t provide the necessary levels of the element) or from excess amounts of Nitrogen (N) and Sodium (Na) in your nutrient solution.

Signs of a potassium deficiency include the following:

-       Slowed/stunted growth of overall plant

-       Poorly formed roots and weak stems and stalks

-       Older leaves turn pale green/yellow, and some dark spots and burned edges may appear

-       Leaves curl and bend in the worst cases

-       Disease and bugs due to lack of strength

Signs of Excess

Excess potassium results from overfeeding your plants – i.e. you use a very strong nutrient solution for a prolonged period of time and it provides too much of the element.

So as you can see, when plants receive too much or too little of these key nutrients they will soon begin to show you certain signs that all is not right. By being able to recognize the cause of different types of distress and then regularly checking your plants, you put yourself in a prime position to quickly deal with any developing issues, stopping further suffering from occurring and maintaining plant health.

Why should you want to know about different nutritional elements?

Towards the start of the last century a lot of research went into identifying both the primary “macro” nutrients (large amounts used by plants), secondary “macro” nutrients (slightly smaller amounts used by plants) and “micro” nutrients/trace elements (small amounts used by plants) that combine to offer complete nourishment following absorption through the roots and leaves. No single element is more important than the next one; plants just require different quantities and concentrations at different stages of their lifecycle. Ever since these successful initial studies took place and all the key nutrients were found, the focus has switched towards investigating the interrelationship of elements (for example you will sometimes find that when there is a large quantity of one element another element becomes deficient) and the most effective combinations.

It’s true that all plants experience a shift in their nutritional requirements as they move from the vegetative stage to the flowering stage. Refer to the important NPK (Nitrogen (N), Phosphorous (P) and Potassium (K)) balance of primary macronutrients and you’ll see how the vegetative cycle dictates a high demand for nitrogen to help build healthy leaves and stem whilst during the bloom cycle upping the ratio of phosphorous and potassium boosts fruit and flower production.

That said, despite these commonalities there are different preferences between plants,

between species and even between clones!

More so than anybody else, growers adopting hydroponic techniques should pay special attention to the food that they feed their plants – since a unique opportunity exists to fine-tune the mix right down to the very smallest detail. Hydroponic nutrient packages are a veritable soup of goodies covering the whole spectrum of required elements, produced in a liquid concentrate form, whereby you just add them to water, check cF and adjust pH to make them available for plants. These can be purchased as one-part, two-part or three-part pre-mixed products, with the simpler of the offerings giving you one option for vegetative growth and one for flowering, and the more advanced packages actually letting you change the ratio of mineral elements at any stage of a crop.

The amount of each element present in a nutrient varies from brand to brand, and also varies based on how many parts make up the product. You can also increase the level of a particular set of elements by introducing liquid and powdered stimulants and boosters with the intention of improving anything from nutrient uptake, root strength, growth rates, flower sizes and fruit flavour. However it is wise to keep things as simple as possible if you are only just starting out. You do not want to bombard your plants with high quantities of all the different types of elements!

So what nutrients does a plant need?

To grow and develop to as near to full potential as possible, each and every plant requires a supply of the following elements:

Primary Macronutrients (large amounts used by plants)

- Nitrogen (N)

- Phosphorous (P)

- Potassium (K)

Secondary Macronutrients (slightly smaller amounts used by plants)

- Magnesium (Mg)

- Sulphur (S)

- Calcium (Ca)

- Silicon (Si)

Micronutrients/Trace Elements (small amounts used by plants)

- Sodium (Na)

- Iron (Fe)

- Manganese (Mn)

- Copper (Cu)

- Zinc (Zn)

- Molybdenum (Mo)

- Boron (B)

- Chlorine (Cl)

- Nickel (Ni)

- Cobalt (Co)

In addition to these elements, a further group of macronutrients exists that are derived from the air and water and include Carbon (C), Hydrogen (H) and Oxygen (O). But since the purpose of this article has been to provide a brief overview of plant nutrition and what you choose to include in the feed regime, the macronutrients derived from the air and water will get covered in a separate article further down the line.

Other growth-influencing factors like light, pH, temperature and humidity merely affect how well a plant uses the elements available to it.

If symptoms of nutrient deficiency/excess appear on new leaves, the problems are usually related to secondary macronutrients and micronutrients whereas if symptoms appear on old leaves, the problems are usually related to primary macronutrients.

How do plants use the available nutrients?

The roots absorb mineral salts from your nutrient solution (or the pre-fertilized media) and the leaves access the beneficial elements from the air and any utilised foliar applications. From here the plant then transports them to areas where they are most needed – for example it will always try and supply more nutrients to the fresh shoots of new growth as opposed to older, established leaves. At this point the issue of nutrient mobility comes into play, given that some elements are more mobile and easily moved around the plant (e.g. nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium) than others. Consequently the lack of a mobile nutrient in the plant is first visible on older leaves, but for a missing, less mobile nutrient the younger leaves suffer because it can’t be moved up to them from the lower, older foliage. With that fact in mind you give yourself a much better chance of determining whether or not a plant has a nutrient deficiency or excess and which particular element may need bumping up or down in feeds (more often than not once you’ve had to flush everything) to rectify the situation.

Now you know all of the elements that a plant needs to grow, the next step involves identifying the signs of deficiency and excess relating to each of them and the correct course of action to take if a problem emerges. Article 2 in the "Food For Thought" series will solely focus on the Primary Macronutrients (large amounts used by plants), covering in great detail the uses within the plant, level of mobility, nutrient deficiency symptoms and remedies and excess nutrient symptoms and remedies for Nitrogen (N), Phosphorous (P) and Potassium (P).

The Clone Station is remarkably efficient in terms of space, covering a footprint of only 82cm x 52cm yet still being able to hold up to six medium propagators. For this exercise one of the propagators has been sacrificed to accommodate a KlimaHeat Grow Room Tubular Heater – a product that will go some way to ensuring optimum growing conditions are maintained.

Although rockwool cubes are shown later on, the actual shopping list is geared towards soil growers.

1 x 6991 Clone Station - £99.95

5 x 0961 Medium Hi-Top Propagator - £6.95 each - £34.75 total

1 x 0611 KlimaHeat Grow room heater - £24.95

120 x 3879 Jiffy Pellets - £0.10 each - £12.00 total

4 x T5 Sunblaster Propagation Light - £21.95 each - £87.80

	Code		Price	Qty
	5991	Clone Station	£89.95		Add to Basket
	0961	Hi-Top Medium Unheated 38cm x 22cm	£6.95		Add to Basket
	0611	80 Watt KlimaHeat Tubular Grow Room Heater	£24.95		Add to Basket
	3879	Jiffy Plug (each)	£0.10		Add to Basket
	5065	T5HO Sunblaster Propagation Light Complete	£21.95	Out of stock

Rather predictably the first step involves preparing the grow area. With a self-contained unit such as the Clone Station you’ll be required to do some minor construction, but nothing here is particularly complicated. After opening the box, simply open the legs of the unit and stand it in the correct position.

Next insert the two poles into the holes in the cover and prepare to attach it to the frame of the unit. If you intend to use the provided light hangers, feed these through the slots in the cover and place the poles into the fixings ensuring they are securely fitted.

Then use the Velcro straps to attach the fabric enclosure to the frame, making sure that the bottom straps are fastened beneath the lower crossbeam.

The Clone Station is supplied with a handy utility storage bag, which fixes to the side of the unit using wing nuts. It may be easier to attach this before putting the cover on.

There are also two shelves included, again attaching to the Clone Station via Velcro fastenings. The bottom one stops the propagators from being sat directly on the floor, an important feature during colder months. To utilise the unit to as near to full capacity as possible, fit both shelves.

With the Clone Station assembled the next step is to focus on the KlimaHeat Grow Room Heater. Again this requires some very basic assembly to put the feet on, placing the plastic loops around the heating tube and fastening using the provided screw.

As soon as both of the feet have been attached, it can be put in the tent. Then just feed the power lead through one of the provided ports.

The final thing to do before starting your seeds is to get some lights in there! The T5HO Sunblaster seems perfectly designed for use in the Clone Station, covering a small footprint yet producing a lot of light. First add the ones to the top shelf because they are harder to change should they not work. With that in mind, always check your equipment before installation to catch any potential faults.

Place the remaining T5HO Sunblaster Lights on the bottom shelf.

You’re now ready to introduce the seeds! More in depth articles can be found here for starting seeds in soil and starting seeds in hydroponics.

Once you have everything in place, close the doors.

The Clone Station easily manages to store five medium Hi-Top Propagators containing 120 seeds in Jiffy Pellets alongside the five T5HO Sunblaster Lights and KlimaHeat Grow Room Tubular Heater.

So there you go, 120 plants waiting to sprout in a small unobtrusive area. A simple set up yet one still capable of providing huge benefits to those who have the foresight of getting started early.

	Code		Price	Qty
	5991	Clone Station	£89.95		Add to Basket
	0961	Hi-Top Medium Unheated 38cm x 22cm	£6.95		Add to Basket
	0611	80 Watt KlimaHeat Tubular Grow Room Heater	£24.95		Add to Basket
	3879	Jiffy Plug (each)	£0.10		Add to Basket
	5065	T5HO Sunblaster Propagation Light Complete	£21.95	Out of stock

The main observation to make is that the model up has been selected with regards to the fan when compared against the equivalent carbon filter. The RVK100 A1 will extract around 175 cubic meters per hour, which proves sufficient for one of the BF160 Budget Carbon Filters, but since two are being used here, to ensure sufficient extraction takes the RVK125 A1 represents the better option, moving around 250 cubic meters per hour. Whilst not quite doubling the power of the RVK100 A1, the larger fan is sufficient for the chosen size of both tents – 2 x Medium BudBoxes.

First take the 10m of 100mm Aluminium Ducting that will be attached to the two filters and cut it in half. To achieve balanced extraction rates from both tents equal lengths of ducting are necessary. With different lengths of ducting a damper unit is required to regulate the flow from the shorter length of ducting, but that shall remain a subject for another time! Once the ducting has been halved, attach one of the pieces to one of the filters using Quick Release Duct Clips.

Repeat the process with the other length of ducting and carbon filter, then hang the latter using super convenient Exolux Rope Ratchet Heavy Duty Hangers. Next feed the ducting through one of the exhaust holes in your first tent, and obviously do so again for the second piece of ducting and the second tent.

With the first stage complete, now focus on the fan. Once it has been wired up, run the unit to ensure everything works and to identify the exhaust side. This will prevent you from needing to make changes as a result of incorrectly setting up equipment.

Since a 100mm (4”) Y Piece is being used with a 125mm (5”) fan, you initially must attach the Reducer to the Y Piece. A fast clamp is the most effective way to do this since it provides a very secure, airtight seal and won’t be affected by the hanging of the fan.

Once the Reducer and Y Piece are connected, you can then attach the latter item to the fan itself – on the intake end. In this case the Reducer slipped straight onto the fan, negating the necessity for another fast clamp. Adding duct tape for extra security is an option, but the fit was tight. Next attach the ducting to the exhaust side of the fan using a quick release duct clip.

All that remains is to hang the fan and attach the smaller piece of ducting from each filter to each Y Piece, again securing the connection with quick release duct clips (depending on the location of the fan, it might be worth doing these two tasks in reverse order). Use the chain and s hooks to support the fan, y piece, and the exhaust ducting that is to be led away from the growing area. The ducting can be shortened at this point to keep everything nice and tidy, but remember to remove equal amounts from both lengths. Once suspended in place, connect the fan to the mains and check that it works.

Job done! Air is now equally extracted from two locations using just a single fan.

Grow Room Heater

If you're growing plants in an area where there is no proper heating system installed, introducing a tubular grow room heater should rank highly on the list of priorities. Always plan ahead and try to prevent problems caused by winter weather and the lights off period rather than having to react when the situation my already be out of control. An easy-to-use tubular grow room heater is effective at generating warmth and maintaining desirable temperatures without demanding a great deal from your power supply.

1.) Assemble the grow room heater and mount it to the floor or a wall in a horizontal position using the brackets provided and suitable fixings. Make sure a plug socket is located nearby.

2.) Surfaces other than the one that the grow room heater is attached to should be a minimum distance of 30mm away

3.) Also ensure that there is a minimum distance of 200mm between the grow room heater and any shelving placed above it.

	Code		Price	Qty
	0611	80 Watt KlimaHeat Tubular Grow Room Heater	£24.95		Add to Basket

Nutrient Heaters

Keeping nutrient temperatures at the optimum level is paramount – particularly during chilly winter months. A cold root zone can adversely affect your plant’s ability to absorb feed, potentially causing a whole host of stress related problems that may end up reducing final yields. Hydor Nutrient Heaters provide a highly effective means of maintaining good growing conditions down below and are essential purchases for growers looking after plants with exposed roots.

1.) Remove the heater from the accompanying packaging, then clip on the suction cups

2.) Plug the heater into a suitable mains socket (switched off) and position it horizontally at the base of your system/tank. Gently apply some pressure to the top of the product to help the suction cups firmly stick in place.

3.) Twist the dial to set the desired nutrient temperature - we recommend 20oC. This setting will be maintained unless you switch off the power or adjust the target. Turn on the mains and leave your heater running at all times, never letting the nutrient solution level drop below your heater.

	Code		Price	Qty
	0179	Heavy Duty Hydor Nutrient Heater 50 Watt	£23.95		Add to Basket
	0224	Heavy Duty Hydor Nutrient Heater 150 Watt	£31.95		Add to Basket
	0225	Heavy Duty Hydor Nutrient Heater 300 Watt	£33.95		Add to Basket

Temperature and Humidity Meter

Keep a watchful eye on important environmental factors with a temperature and humidity meter. Both the minimum and maximum temperature and humidity values should be recorded so that you can make continuous evaluations of the suitability and stability of indoor conditions in a quick and easy manner. An ideal grow room temperature typically registers somewhere between 21^oC and 25^oC, whilst relative humidity needs to hit 70-80% when propagating, 50-80% for vegetative growth and 35-80% at the flowering stage.

	Code		Price	Qty
	0876	Accuread Temperature and Humidity Meter	£9.95		Add to Basket

Nutrient Meter

For a clear picture of how the root zones of hydroponically grown plants are shaping up at any given time, look no further than a nutrient meter. The better models out there have been designed as all encompassing, vital statistic generators, capable of giving you incredibly accurate, instant readouts on nutrient temperature, pH and cF. The optimum nutrient temperature target is 20^oC (see pages 96 and 97 to learn about recommended pH and cF levels).

	Code		Price	Qty
	1313	The Tri-Meter	£135.00	Out of stock

Propagators

Quality heated propagators come into their own during wintertime, proving to be low costing, highly effective options for maintaining perfect propagating conditions and speeding up the rooting process. Aim to keep the temperature inside your heated propagator between 21^oC and 26^oC (optimum of 24^oC) and root cuttings within three weeks to avoid any major risk of failures.

	Code		Price	Qty
	0963	Hi-Top Medium Heated 35cm x 21cm	£34.95		Add to Basket
	0964	Hi-Top Large Heated 50cm x 37cm	£59.95		Add to Basket

Fan Speed Controller

Unless you’ve installed a temperature-controlled extractor fan, it makes a lot of sense to closely manage your fan speeds via a controller unit. By choosing one of the better controllers found on the market you can avoid the unnecessary burden of having to carry out regular checks of your fans and of manually changing the settings when required, and are also able to run them at lower idling speeds to limit the amount of cold air entering into the grow room.

	Code		Price	Qty
	1619	Klimavator	£99.95		Add to Basket

Air Movement Fans

On top of the extraction system that you should have installed in your grow room, it’s worthwhile setting up one or two air movement fans. These are great for creating a continuous flow of air around your plants, preventing stale pockets of air from forming and helping with temperature control. We highly recommend placing a fan in the corner of a room that is not square or rectangular – just don’t point it directly at any plants located nearby.

	Code		Price	Qty
	7787	6 inch Clip-on Fan	£9.95		Add to Basket
	0353	Small Professional Air Circulator - 20cm (8 inch)	£29.95		Add to Basket
	0354	Medium Professional Air Circulator - 32cm (12 inch)	£49.95		Add to Basket

Hand watering plants is often a nuisance, especially when you have a large number in pots to get around and feed. The bigger these plants grow, the thirstier they become – meaning water and nutrients must regularly be administered to keep providing everything required for further development. Failure to do so leads to a drying out of the rootzone and, through this, the emergence of stressed plants that are unable to function properly. In the worst case scenario, if left untreated over time, plants can become damaged beyond repair. Not good!

This is where DIY drip irrigation saves the day! Super cheap to set up and very easy to maintain, the potted plant grower aiming to automate feeds surely won’t find a better solution!

Lets have a look at how to assemble a basic watering system…

First of all you need to select a tank, taking into account the following:

- how much floor space do I have?

- how many plants do I want to water?

- how long am I going to leave them for?

As an example, if you had twenty big plants (20) that each drank half a litre (0.5) of water a day and only wanted to check up on them every 7 days (7) you

would need a tank with a minimum capacity of 70 litres (20 x 0.5 x 7).

Next there's the pump to pick out.

In a drip irrigation system you generally use a higher pressure pump than in low level hydroponics (e.g. NFT) because enough pressure needs to be created to keep the drippers flowing regularly. The pump size required depends upon the height that it will have to lift the water to reach your plants and the number of them you intend to feed. As a rough guide, for every dripper you put together, 50 litres per hour of pump action is required. So a system with 10 drip lines needs a pump capable of moving 500 litres per hour of water

at the very least - however we tend to recommend running a larger one than this where possible.

With your pump and tank sorted, it’s time to start building the system. You can set up your pipework in one of two ways:

- a drip ring

- a single line with an end stop

Run some pipe (13mm, 19mm or 25mm) between your plants making sure that they are in close proximity to it. Use Elbows and Tee Pieces to re-direct

the pipe where necessary.

4mm Drip Line has been designed to carry nutrient solution from the larger pipework to the drippers. By creating small holes in the pipe using an Irrigation Hole Punch you can securely attach the 4mm Drip Line and run it wherever is desired. Alternatively for higher numbers of evenly spaced plants, an 8-Outlet Manifold and Tee Piece proves to be an even easier means of establishing multiple drippers in one area of your room.

Make sure the lengths of 4mm pipe are the same to keep pressure even across the system – pre-assembled drippers are an ideal ready-to-use product.

Choose the drippers based upon the type of medium supporting your plants. Most potted plant growers opt for water retentive mediums such as soil and coco, therefore a slower more regulated dripper works best – like the 2 litre an hour dripper. Smaller pots usually only require one dripper each, whereas larger ones benefit from having two.

Set up a timer to control your pumps on/off cycle. Watering little and often will benefit the plants greatly since it keeps the medium damp but not saturated, allowing for plenty of oxygen around the root zone. This results in sustained

growth and healthy plants! Just remember to increase the number and length of feeds as they mature bearing in mind that the bigger the size of plant, the bigger the demand for fuel.

Tips

- Use Garland Trays and place these underneath your pots to collect any run off that is produced

- ATA Clean is a must when using drippers. It helps keep lines clear, meaning your plants will never go thirsty. Adding an Inline Filter to your system also helps prevent blockages

- Running an Oxy-Plus solution through your drip system in between crops will

help keep it clean and free of infection

Rather than insert drippers directly into the main pipe, you can use an 8-Outlet Manifold and 13mm Tee Piece

Each 12 Litre Rhizo-Pot (propped open with a plastic pot for display purposes only) requires just a single dripper

Using an Inline Filter to avoid pipe and/or pump blockages is highly recommended

	Code		Price	Qty
	1012	Flexi-Pipe 13mm - per metre	£1.55		Add to Basket
	0777	MC450 Pump - 450 Litres per Hour (for Gro-Tank 604/901)	£18.50		Add to Basket
	0185	Elbow 13mm	£0.55		Add to Basket
	0359	Connector 13mm -13mm	£0.80		Add to Basket
	0176	Hole Punch	£0.85		Add to Basket
	1247	Assembled Low Pressure Dripper 2 Litres per hour	£1.25		Add to Basket
	1049	8 Outlet Manifold M.BSP	£2.50		Add to Basket
	1050	13mm F.BSP Tee	£1.45		Add to Basket
	0282	In-line Filter 13mm	£4.50		Add to Basket
	8199	8 Litre Rhizo-Pot - 21cm x 21cm x 21cm (Height)	£1.45		Add to Basket
	8190	12 Litre Rhizo-Pot - 26cm x 26cm x 22cm (Height)	£1.65		Add to Basket
	8191	16 Litre Rhizo-Pot - 28cm x 28cm x 26cm (Height)	£2.55		Add to Basket
	8192	30 Litre Rhizo-Pot - 35cm x 35cm x 30cm (Height)	£3.25		Add to Basket
	8193	39 Litre Rhizo-Pot - 40cm x 40cm x 30cm (Height)	£3.95		Add to Basket
	8194	56 Litre Rhizo-Pot - 43cm x 43cm x 38cm (Height)	£4.95		Add to Basket
	1480	Small Garland Work Tray (58cm x 40cm)	£4.95		Add to Basket
	1481	Jumbo Garland Work Tray (117cm x 40cm)	£8.95		Add to Basket
	1491	Giant Garland Work Tray (120cm x 55cm)	£12.95		Add to Basket
	5871	Metre Square Garland Work Tray (100cm x 100cm)	£24.95		Add to Basket
	1482	1.2 Metre Square Garland Tray (120cm x 120cm)	£34.95		Add to Basket

“Gradual Harvest”

By only harvesting the fruit when they are ripe it refocuses the plants energy to develop those found to be not quite ready yet and also helps turn the remaining flowers into fruits. This method is a good one to use for produce like the chillies, tomatoes and cucumbers.

“Two Stage Harvest”

Here you harvest the majority of the crop in one go and leave the last few undeveloped fruits to finish off before taking them. It is unusual for a plants produce to be ready to remove all in one go, and by taking the majority of them, it puts a considerable amount of stress on the plant, which then focuses energy on the last few remaining bits. This method suits the aforementioned plants, but is also ideal for the likes of basil.

“All-In-One Harvest”

The final method involves taking all the produce in one shot. Whilst this may not result in achieving the most from your plant, it is a well-used method, especially effective in cases where you have a pest problem, or have plants waiting to go into your flowering room. By far the simplest method, you harvest everything on the plant but end up sacrificing the smaller potential harvest from the bits that are not quite ready.

I decided to go with the “gradual harvest” for reasons that are explained below…

The First Harvest

After switching the plants to their flowering cycle back in February, there has not been a great deal to report. I haven’t actually done much to the plants other than change the nutrients and watch flowers develop and slowly turn into chillies.

But now, as you can see, there are a number of chillies present and even more flowering sites. This brings me to the point where I am able to take the first harvest.

Twilight chillies mature from white to purple to orange to red, the main reason why the plant is regarded as one of the most beautiful of the chilli varieties.

Once the chillies turn red they can be harvested. The general rule is that the longer a chilli remains on a plant, the hotter it will get – however my main objective was to maximise yields, not to develop face-melters! By taking the fruits that are ready, the plant then has the ability to refocus its energy on converting the many other flowering sites into chillies.

I used Greenblade Quality Trimming Scissors to remove the ripe chillies with a precise cut but you can also apply a scalpel or just pinch them off. It is important to ensure that the break is clean, as otherwise it can cause additional stress to the plants. For the first harvest there were around 8 chillies taken from each plant.

Since this is a comparison grow, it would be remiss of me not to explore the results a little further. Looking at the plants, I think the one in the bubbler system generally seems better developed. It is more symmetrical and has an overall larger mass of foliage. Of course the soil plant is of a similar size, and therefore the study does not perhaps extol the virtues of hydroponics producing more yield. I can put this down to two main factors. The first one being the variety of chilli used for the grow. I chose the twilight because of the way it looks, not considering that it is a relatively small plant. Had I used another variety, the differences would perhaps be greater. The second factor was that the plants began growing during a cold snap, in a garage type room. Therefore the ambient temperature registered below the ideal range. Whilst there was a grow room heater in there, the temperatures could have done with being higher. I believe that the cold start stunted the initial growth and led to slower development compared against what’s possible in a warmer environment.

Obviously we learn from our mistakes. The next time I do a comparison grow, not only will the environment be better suited in terms of temperature, but I shall choose a variety of plant where the difference is easier to see.

So over the up and coming few weeks I intend to continue harvesting the fruits that are ripe and keep a tally of them, because despite the previously mentioned factors I feel that by the end of the crop there will still be a significant difference between the two.

Once the harvest is complete if you are not going to use the produce immediately, the best thing to do is pop it on a drying rack. This allows the fruits of your labour to dry, or finish ripening without the risk of losing any of it to mould.

	Code		Price	Qty
	0556	Greenblade Spring Loaded Trimming Scissors	£9.95		Add to Basket
	4020	Jumbo Hanging Drying Rack	£18.95		Add to Basket

Lifting up the lid of your feed tank to find brown and mushy roots remains an incredibly disheartening and all too frequent heat-related issue at this time of year, with failure to cool the nutrient solution almost always representing the cause.

A regular check of your plants goes some way towards eliminating the threat of a nasty surprise, as does the application of a good root stimulant like Rhizotonic, the insulation of tank surfaces using reflective sheeting and the installation of a closely controlled and highly effective ventilation system. However, for the most directly relevant preventative measure you also need to look at introducing a Hailea Nutrient Chiller.

Guaranteed to keep the nutrient solution between the optimum temperature range of 18^oC and 21^oC, this hard working refrigeration unit helps boost plant performance by producing a more suitable and stable root-level environment. The cooler water will hold more oxygen than warm water, leading to less hospitable conditions for harmful pathogens and significant improvements in nutrient uptake.

The Hailea Nutrient Chiller measures 338mm x 218mm x 325mm. It includes an integral thermostat that enables you to monitor tank conditions simply and quickly, and is a must have item for growers with IWS and bubbler systems. To manage a single tank only requires one additional small pump plus the necessary pipework – see more details below.

Setting up a nutrient chiller in a typical grow room

Items you will need:

-       Hailea Nutrient Chiller

-       Flexi-Pipe 13mm

-       MJ1000 Maxi-Jet Pump or Idra 400 Sicce Pump

Items we also recommend

-       MiMouse 30 Sicce Pump

-       Professional Air Circulator

The process:

1.)  Place the Hailea Nutrient Chiller somewhere cool – either by a window or door, or even if possible outside of the actual grow room itself

2.)  Locate the MJ1000 Maxi-Jet/Idra 400 Sicce Pump at the end of your tank that is nearest to where you have positioned the Hailea Nutrient Chiller

3.)  Run a piece of Flexi-Pipe from the outlet of the MJ1000 Maxi-Jet/Idra 400 Sicce Pump to the inlet of the Hailea Nutrient Chiller

4.)  Run a piece of Flexi-Pipe from the outlet of the Hailea Nutrient Chiller to the furthest away end of your tank, ensuring that it is submerged in its final position

Optional:

5.)  Sit a MiMouse 30 Sicce Pump at the opposite end of the tank to the MJ1000 Maxi-Jet/Idra 400 Sicce Pump and run this to stir the nutrient solution. Doing so will mix together the cold and warm water parts of the tank

6.)  Set up a Professional Air Circulator near to the Hailea Nutrient Chiller to keep the unit cool

Additional Information:

-       For the purposes of growing plants, the Hailea Nutrient Chiller suits tanks with a capacity of 100 litres and below

-       Using the chiller it can take up to 20 hours to reach the desired water temperature

-       This unit is not suitable for a 30C+ environment

-       The pipework and pump required must let you achieve a flow rate of between 400 and 1100 litres per hour

We recommend opting for an Idra 400 Sicce Pump if attempting to cool taller reservoirs like those found on IWS systems, and a MJ1000 Maxi-Jet/Idra 400 Sicce Pump to service low level tanks

	Code		Price	Qty
	1792	Hailea HC-100A Nutrient Chiller	£234.95		Add to Basket
	0049	MJ1000 Pump - 1,000 Litres per Hour (for Gro-Tank 1000)	£35.00		Add to Basket
	1012	Flexi-Pipe 13mm - per metre	£1.55		Add to Basket
	1195	MiMouse 30 - 300 Litres per hour 13mm outlet	£12.95		Add to Basket
	0354	Medium Professional Air Circulator - 32cm (12 inch)	£49.95		Add to Basket

For example – if you are looking to produce a large number of small plants the aim is more often than not to keep the vegetative cycle short, thereby limiting the eventual size of the plant.

To produce massive plants and achieve huge yields, you might want to think about extending the typical vegetative cycle. For some plants this is a possibility, for others there are other steps that must be taken.

Before moving on to take a closer look at those steps, first consider why you would want to extend the vegetative cycle in the first place.

During the vegetative stage a plant is essentially preparing itself for flowering and the chance to reproduce. Indeed plants, like any other living beings, have one sole purpose for existence – survival and the continuation of the genes. The most effective method of survival is reproduction.

A plant in the vegetative cycle uses this time to develop the root system and, as growth continues, generates new flowering sites both on and away from the main stem. By making a plant develop beyond the point at which it would normally bloom, you are encouraging the entire infrastructure to become bigger and stronger for when flowering finally does commence.

Logic dictates that bigger plants will produce more fruit and seeds, as internal changes are made to make the most of the opportunity to reproduce. This is something that every grower should use to his or her advantage!

Indoor gardeners have the opportunity to tweak nature’s intention for a plant. In many cases simply maintaining an 18 hour light cycle will be enough to keep plants laying down roots and preparing points of reproduction. Using growth feed and enzyme products can provide significant aid, as can the provision of a sufficiently large pot or container for your plants. The bigger the pot, the more room the root zone has to develop unrestricted and healthy.

Whilst this approach works for some plants, there are other varieties that flower automatically upon reaching a certain stage of development. These plants present an obstacle for indoor gardeners, as the seeds natural programming kicks in due to survival instinct. Chillis are one such variety of plant, which explains why you hear of some people flowering chillies under 18 hours of light. Basically your plants tell you they need to reproduce.

This obstacle is not impossible to overcome. For the indoor gardener the plant can be kept in the vegetative stage, which in turn encourages the plant to work harder to reproduce.

By simply pinching out the flowering sites of the plant you can postpone the bloom cycle until you are ready. It does seem a drastic step, but removal of what will become the focus of all the plants energy forces them to redirect this back into vegetative growth.

To relate the procedure to a natural occurrence, think about a freak late spring hail shower. Most chilli growers know how easily the flowers drop, and it is not beyond the realms of probability that in such a hail storm a chilli plant could lose all flowers. In nature the plant then quickly adapts and works to produce more flowers for the same season.

The plant pictured is an overwintered Dorset Naga chilli plant. Vegetative growth does not seem as abundant as it maybe should be going into the second year, and whilst the foliage admittedly appears quite dense, longer and stronger stems are really what you need. Already you can see some flowers have developed but the size of the plant is not ideal and unlikely to contribute towards fantastic results, even though a little growth will still take place.

The flowers and developing flowering sites were all removed, forcing the plant back into the vegetative stage. Often indoor gardeners force flower plants, by making them flower when perhaps in nature they would not – this is essentially the reverse of that process, an often overlooked measure in the pursuit of efficiency.

After any type of pruning – whether it be for this, taking cuttings or general shaping – always give the plant a nice dose of stress relief tonic such as SuperThrive to help with recovery.

Tips for plants in the vegetative stage.

1 Use the biggest size of pot available. The more space the plant has to develop its rootzone, the more secure the set of foundations

2 Give your plants plenty of blue light – this is what they crave in the vegetative stage

3 Water little and often. Instead of saturating the media, let it become quite dry so that the roots search out water. By sticking to little and often watering you keep the rootzone active and healthy.

4 Nutrition-wise, make sure the plant has everything it needs to develop healthily. Plants in the vegetative stage require plenty of nitrogen. Watch out for signs of underfeeding, like the yellowing of leaves.

5 If a plant is going to be held in the vegetative stage for some time, pruning may be necessary. When a plant is growing too high, prune the main stem so that the plants energy is focused more on the remaining stems.

6 Be patient. Whilst extending the vegetative cycle can seem like an odd thing to do, the rewards are often amazing.

	Code		Price	Qty
	0555	Greenblade Quality Trimming Scissors	£7.95		Add to Basket
	0556	Greenblade Spring Loaded Trimming Scissors	£9.95		Add to Basket
	1733	Vita Link Foliar Feed 250 mls	£7.95		Add to Basket
	2189	Vita Link Foliar Feed 1 Litre	£23.95		Add to Basket

Current owners of grow tents should already know the product benefits, namely making the most of the light generated from a lamp and gaining heightened control over the environment. They are fantastic if you have grown large plants to fill the available area, but for small, young plants eventually heading outdoors there often seems to be a lot of wasted room. Setting up Ezi-Roll Light Hangers to optimise the position of the light does help, although a lot of vertical space still ends up being unused. Fortunately you can overcome the problem of empty vertical space by installing a utility shelf, which essentially adds another layer to your tent. They are robust enough to support propagators and a light, allowing you to create 2 square metres of floor space from a 1 metre square tent – clearly advantageous when propagation time comes around.

This article aims to walk you through installation of the utility shelf to double the amount of your available space.

First things first, check that everything you need is present. A factory packed kit can still be subject to errors so find out before you start work rather afterwards.

The next step is to completely remove everything from your tent – you do not want to damage plants or equipment should something go wrong. Clear an area around the tent since you will be required to dismantle parts of the tent in order to fit the shelf.

For simplicity’s sake assemble the utility shelf frame now, remembering to insert the centre support bar before adding the second side of the frame.

Once the shelf frame has been put together, remove the top of the tent by unzipping the zips, folding back the cover and disconnecting the framework. Carefully lift the shelf frame, since it is not totally stable at this stage, and ease over the top of the tent poles. Then move the shelf into the desired position, ensuring it is even, and tighten the screws to secure in place.

Clip the wire mesh support shelving onto the framework, making sure that each one sits as close to the respective pole as possible. Make sure the shelf is secure by pushing down on it. You’re now done, so reassemble the tent!

Fix the light back up, in this instance a SunMate CFL reflector. With the top shelf now free, some lighting can go here. Two T5 fluorescent tubes will suffice as these can sit straight on top of the propagators. The final step before reintroducing the plants is to make sure the lights work.

There we have it, twice as much available space for pretty minimal effort.

	Code		Price	Qty
	6999	Intermediate BudBox Tent (75cm x 75cm x 160cm)	£99.95		Add to Basket
	7004	Medium BudBox Tent (75cm x 75cm x 200cm)	£114.95		Add to Basket
	7000	Large BudBox Tent (100cm x 100cm x 200cm)	£118.95		Add to Basket
	7005	Utility Shelf to suit Small/Intermediate/Medium BudBox Tent	£24.95		Add to Basket
	7006	Utility Shelf to suit Large/Titan BudBox Tent	£29.95		Add to Basket
	5876	Sun Mate Grow CFL Reflector Only (mains connection)	£39.95		Add to Basket
	7302	125 Watt Blue Eco-Light complete with Sun Mate Grow CFL Reflector	£57.95		Add to Basket
	7303	125 Watt Red Eco-Light complete with Sun Mate Grow CFL Reflector	£57.95		Add to Basket
	5065	T5HO Sunblaster Propagation Light Complete	£21.95	Out of stock

Definition of cF

cF is short for Conductivity Factor. It refers to the measurement of electro-conductivity in solutions, and fluctuates according to the amount of dissolved mineral content. In other words, the conductivity rises or falls depending on how much nutrient there is in a solution. This makes cF an ideal measure for nutrient strength and a reliable indicator of the additional nutrient necessary to achieve an optimum dosage.

Note: pure water does not conduct electricity and has a rating of zero, but with the addition of soluble elements, electricity can move through the solution, giving it a conductivity rating.

cF should always be the key reference point if you want to closely manage nutrient strength and avoid overfeeding or underfeeding your plants.

The conductivity factor of solutions is also discussed in terms of E.C. Measuring exactly the same factor as cF, you calculate E.C by dividing the cF figure by 10 – e.g. cF 24 becomes E.C. 2.4.

Getting the feed strength right

By keeping a close eye on the appearance of your plants, you can usually detect certain signs that indicate whether to increase or decrease the strength of nutrient solutions. For example, progressively stronger feeds are obviously justified when vibrant, luscious green plants have been developing at a rapid rate, in order to support further, explosive bursts of growth. Frequently monitoring the cF value goes one step further than mere observation, providing you with a 100% reliable feed update and an alert system for ever-changing requirements.

After roots have been exposed to a feed for several days, measure the cF of your solution to see if it’s risen or fallen.

A higher figure than previous implies that the plants absorbed water but left the nutrients behind – they don’t require much more nutrient content next time you top up. Prolonged overfeeding can lead to tip burn, only remedied by diluting the solution with pH correct water.

A drop suggests the plants are hungry, having eaten more than they drank – so introduce additional food as soon as possible. Otherwise over time older leaves will start to turn yellow and shrivel, since the lack of nutrients – namely the all-important Nitrogen that promotes lush green foliage – usually supplied via roots must then be taken from existing areas (the old leaves) and moved to new growth sites.

Ideally the cF would stay the same whilst the plants consume the nutrient solution, therefore suggesting that what they are eating and drinking balances out just right. If a problem does occur, at first there is no reason to worry. Your plants are just basically telling you that something must be rectified! If you respond quickly and with the correct form of action all parts of the plant will soon recover to improve the overall appearance.

Of course, another factor you need to take into consideration is the type of plant(s) being grown. Different crops reach the peak of their performance at different levels of nutrient strength. For example, lettuce prefers a relatively low cF of 8-12 whereas tomatoes and peppers respond most favourably to a higher cF of 20-30. We recommend properly researching your chosen plant before beginning to grow it.

A further point to think about involves the temperature. For every 1^oC that the temperature changes, the conductivity of your nutrient solution will increase by approximately 2%. Consequently always try to check your cF at the same point in the light cycle.

Tooling Up

We recommend equipping yourself with accurate and reliable tools for monitoring cF and pH values. The Tri-Meter measures both factors, the Bluelab cF Truncheon and Hobby cF Meter read nutrient strength, and the Hobby pH Meter and manual pH testers identify the pH of your nutrient solution.

When considering your options, bear in mind that the Bluelab cF Truncheon is factory calibrated and ready to use right away whereas the Hobby cF Meter requires manual calibration with cF calibration fluid. The Tri-Meter also needs to be calibrated, for cF and pH. Remember to calibrate your meter before initial use, and then regularly afterwards (see meter instructions for more details). Also make sure the calibration solution temperature registers as closely as possible to that of the nutrient solution, thereby minimising temperature related errors.

In addition to cF and pH meters/testers, you should also purchase a large bucket, a nutrient measuring syringe and a measuring jug/cup.

The first task you’ll need your tools for is to identify whether to use hard or soft water nutrients.

Nutrients: Hard or Soft?

Fill up a bucket with tap water and leave it to stand for 24 hours – this allows the water to reach room temperature (accurate cF and pH readings are made at 25^oC) and gives any present chlorine enough time to evaporate. Dip your cF meter and pH meter (or manual pH tester) into the water and check the readings. If the pH is 7.8 or above and the cF is 8 or above, then you require hard water nutrients. If the pH is below 7.7 and the cF is below 7, opt for soft water nutrients.

cF and what you need to remember with your feeds

Make sure you note the cF of your tap water before preparing to add feeds and stimulators. Instructions supplied by nutrients manufacturers are based on a general starting cF of 0, but these obviously fail to account for the different starting cF figures of individual growers. As a result, you will have to alter recommended target cF levels in accordance with your specific base cF level. For example:

If you plan on adding PK boosters (highly recommended!), introduce them to your water before the nutrients. Adding PK boosters before nutrients helps guarantee that your plants receive the optimum level of potassium and phosphorous to promote bloom related activities. By then using nutrients to top up to the desired cF level, you are still able to provide plants with sufficient nitrogen. All other boosters should be added to your system just after introducing the nutrients, since they also may affect cF and pH.

Young plants require weaker nutrients (typically ¼ strength) with a target cF of 4-10 when the tap water base cF is 0. More established plants react to stronger nutrients (anything above ¼ strength) with a target cF of 10-18 when the tap water base cF is 0. Check the label of your nutrients for their instructions, since recommendations vary from one brand to another. Don’t forget to consider your background cF reading!

Finally…

With the nutrient solution in your system, check the pH level using your pH meter – if it’s too high add a few drops of pH Down to lower it. The nutrient solution is now ready for your plants. You generally need to replace this with a fresh batch every week, topping up with half strength solution as required in the mean time. For any further advice call our technical team on 0845 345 5176.

	Code		Price	Qty
	0121	Bluelab (NZH) Nutrient (cF) Truncheon	£69.95		Add to Basket
	1313	The Tri-Meter	£135.00	Out of stock
	0126	cF Standard (2.76mS/cm2) - 250mls	£3.95		Add to Basket

The plants have been doing quite well in the tent for four weeks now. They are still relatively small, but the twilight variety typically grows at a slower pace compared against other examples of chilli. You could say that patience is essential!

Given the age of the plants, I feel the time has come to switch to flowering. Indeed I could leave them in the vegetative stage to develop furthermore, thus allowing for the pursuit of bigger yields, but the overall objective of this first ever grow diary is not to aggressively go after the very best results. I am still aiming for positive returns; however my main aim continues to be to lead you through a successful basic grow.

Switching to the flowering phase is a seminal point in the growing cycle, as you progress from vegetative development to fruit production. On top of the one obvious change you need to make when negotiating a switch between light cycles – i.e. the actual adjusting of the light’s on timings – new growers should also know that your feeds require a review. Often you’ve actually got to alter the nutrients supplied to your plants.

With the hydroponically grown plant I simply sub out the Vita Link Max Grow nutrient for Vita Link Max Bloom. Other than that, you’re following exactly the same guide for feeding plants as before (see the previous update).

So far the soil-based plant has been growing on the nutrients contained in the medium, and a little added Hygrozyme. Enough feed usually exists in the Professional Soil for four to six weeks of growth and at the moment there should still be plenty left to support the plant over another fortnight. But since we plan on changing the cycle, it seems a good idea to introduce bottled nutrients full of extra minerals and useful elements. When you’re growing in soil, you usually continue with growth nutrients for a couple of weeks after the switch to ensure the plant has everything needed to continue developing. I begin with a half strength solution comprising of 1ml of Vita Link Earth Grow and 1ml of Vita Link Earth Bloom nutrients per litre of water, plus the Hygrozyme. The nutrients are not the focus of this update, yet it is worth reiterating that Hygrozyme offers benefits throughout plant life.

Speaking of reiterating points, let us return to one of the primary benefits of indoor gardening - control. Growing inside a loft, garage or room allows you to overcome the restrictions of natural seasons and take control of the conditions in which plants exist. In nature for instance, my chilli plants would not have even broken seed due to the ground being frozen solid! It can still seem surreal thinking I’m about to switch mine to the flowering cycle!

Plants that grow outdoors enjoy their vegetative period from the spring equinox onwards – the equinox being the time in the year when day and night are of equal length. After this date (March 20^th for 2012) the plants get more than 12 hours of light, and once again become able to develop the root zone, foliage and potential flowering sites.

In an indoor environment, where we have control, the vegetative stage is like the development stage for the plant. My plants were exposed to a vegetative light cycle of 18 hours, meaning out of every 24 hours, the lights ran for 18 hours, leaving six hours of darkness. Some people even like to operate a 24-hour vegetative light cycle, where the lights are on 24 hours a day. I’m not convinced about the all day approach though, as several indepth studies have shown that there is no real benefit to this approach. Plants of course need light to photosynthesise, but a period of darkness allows the plant to convert the photosynthesised nutrients into plant growth. I always choose an 18-hour vegetative light cycle, as if for nothing else, it will take 25% off of electricity costs!

Back in nature this vegetative period extends until the solstice, the day where there is more daylight than any other (June 20^th for 2012). Then from here onwards the days get shorter and the plants emphasis changes from development to the production of fruit and flowers. Different plants’ flowering cycles are triggered at different times to ensure that their fruit is produced before the seasonal conditions change.

For the indoor gardener the process is much simpler, you simply switch to a twelve-hour light cycle. This change proves more severe than the plant would experience naturally, working to suddenly send it into the flowering phase – hence the term forced flowering! We are literally forcing the plant to alter, directing internal chemistry into survival mode. The plants emphasis now changes from developing its infrastructure to fulfilling reproductive needs and the reason for being. By switching straight to twelve hours, the plant is suddenly propelled much further into the flowering cycle. Normally the plant does not experience a twelve-hour day until the autumn equinox (September 22^nd for 2012). At this date the plants fruits, if not properly developed, go into overload to ensure they are fully formed – including the production of seeds.

When the indoor gardener switches to a twelve-hour cycle, you essentially trick the plant into thinking that it is later in the season. This in turn makes the reproductive system work a lot harder to try and catch up. The change in emphasis in the plant can take a while to kick in, especially as the plant has been denied the natural transition it would have in nature.

So an indoor gardener should not expect to see immediate results, despite the drastic change. The plants chemistry must adjust to provide the necessary enzymes and conditions for starting the flowering process. As soon as you have switched the lights expect to be waiting around a few weeks, depending on the plant, until flowers begin to form. Until then you must ensure that the plants look healthy and receive fresh nutrients.

Once the nutrients had been changed, I needed to adjust the timer and decide upon the most suitable period to activate the lights. Normally I would operate them from about seven at night through to seven in the morning. This serves two purposes. Firstly it can help maintain a stable temperature, with the lights providing heat in the colder night. Secondly, electricity is cheaper at night. Since I would not be around during the lights on cycle, which is essential to check on and maintain the plants, I am resigned to setting some times where cold conditions exist and the lights are off. To counter potential problems relating to the cold, I have the grow room heater and the nutrient heater. The lights will be on from 11pm until 11 am, giving me a couple of hours towards then end of the cycle to keep my eyes on the plants. I set the timer accordingly and let the plants transition begin, as they experience their first twelve-hour night.

	Code		Price	Qty
	1447	Vita Link Max Bloom 2 Litre (hard water)	£11.95		Add to Basket
	1453	Vita Link Max Bloom 2 Litre (soft water)	£11.95		Add to Basket
	1448	Vita Link Max Bloom 10 Litre (hard water)	£34.95		Add to Basket
	1454	Vita Link Max Bloom 10 Litre (soft water)	£34.95		Add to Basket
	1479	Vita Link Max Bloom 20 Litre (hard water)	£51.95		Add to Basket
	1477	Vita Link Max Bloom 20 Litre (soft water)	£51.95		Add to Basket
	1437	Vita Link Earth Bloom - 1 Litre	£8.95		Add to Basket
	1438	Vita Link Earth Bloom - 5 Litres	£24.95		Add to Basket
	3054	Hygrozyme 500 mls	£24.95		Add to Basket
	0127	Hygrozyme 1 Litre	£37.95		Add to Basket
	0174	Hygrozyme 4 Litre	£144.95		Add to Basket

Definition of pH

pH is short for Potential of Hydrogen. It refers to the measurement of acidity in solutions, using a scale that identifies acidic solutions as those with a pH of less than 7 (the closer to 0, the more acidic) and alkaline solutions as those with a pH of more than 7 (the closer to 14, the more basic). Pure water has a pH of around 7, representing the neutral position.

Although the numbers on the pH scale only appear to be separated by a factor of one, the actual difference is x10. Consequently a solution registering 5 on the pH scale proves 10 times more acidic than a solution of 6 and 100 times more acidic than a solution of 7. These are quite significant increases and decreases – which should help you to see the importance of taking precise readings and corrective action.

Impact of pH on plants

The closer the relationship is between the pH level of your nutrient solution and the preferred pH level of your particular plants, the more effective they will be at absorbing the essential elements from the solution. Different plants have different pH preferences for optimum growth, but most varieties favourably respond to anything between 5.5 and 6.0 (a slightly acidic growing environment). A lot of plants start to experience problems when the pH ventures beyond 6.5, usually because nutrients precipitate out of the solution and are then no longer available.

pH should always be a key reference point if you want to ensure that nutrients are readily available for your plants.

Punishment for failing to check and change pH levels will come in the form of undesirable looking plants and nutrient solution. A particularly low pH may cause lockout of Magnesium (Mg) leading to leaf curl, yellowing of leaf tips and yellowing of the veins of older leaves, as well as nutrient precipitation (where solid salts form out of your solution). On the flip side a high pH often stops plants from accessing Nitrogen (N), again yellowing leaves and also stunting growth. If a poor growing environment exists too, expect to find fungal growth in your nutrient tank/reservoir.

Having taken this information on board, you now need to get hold of the necessary grow room tools!

Tooling up

We recommend equipping yourself with accurate and reliable tools for monitoring pH values. The Tri-Meter measures both the cF and pH of your nutrient solution, whilst the Hobby pH Meter and manual pH testers are used solely for the latter task.

All three options require manual calibration with pH buffers. The Tri-Meter also needs to be calibrated for cF.

Calibrating a meter is relatively easy. You just pop a little bit of calibration fluid into a cup and test the reading of the meter. If it returns a value of over 7.0, place the provided screwdriver into a little hole found at the back and tweak until correct.

To properly maintain pH testing equipment and ensure consistently reliable readings, always wash the parts that are dipped into nutrient solutions with clean water and then wipe dry using a suitable piece of cloth.

Being able to increase and decrease the pH reading requires that you have pH Up alongside one of pH Down, Organic pH Down or Nitric Acid. These three methods of reducing the pH figure simply use different chemicals to do the job.

More often than not you will apply pH down rather than pH Up. A safe method of reducing the pH level is to first add several small drops of pH down to a litre of water before then adding this weaker pH solution to your nutrient, a few mls at a time until you hit your target. A single drop added directly to the nutrient could result in the pH level plummeting, so by adopting this method you won’t have to use pH Up to correct it.

In addition to these pH products, we recommend the following items for mixing nutrient solutions: a cF meter (if you’ve not got a Tri-Meter), a large bucket, a nutrient measuring syringe, a measuring jug/cup, protective glasses and protective gloves.

Using the pH level to determine your need for hard or soft nutrients

Determining whether you’re in a hard or soft water area takes nothing more than a simple review of tap water pH and cF levels.

Begin by filling up a bucket with tap water and leave it to stand for 24 hours – this allows the water to reach room temperature (accurate pH and cF readings are made at 25^oC) and gives any present chlorine enough time to evaporate. Then dip a pH meter and cF meter (or manual pH tester) into the water and check the readings. If the pH is 7.8 or above and the cF is 8 or above, you require hard water nutrients. If the pH is below 7.7 and the cF is below 7, opt for soft water nutrients.

Checking pH

With the nutrient solution in your system, check the pH level using your pH meter - the ideal reading is around 5.8 when growing in rockwool slabs and between 6.3-6.8 for NFT/ Flood & Drain/ DWC. If the pH is too high add a few drops of pH Down to reduce it, if it is too low resort to a minute amount of pH Up.

The nutrient solution is now ready for your plants. You generally need to replace this with a fresh batch every week, topping up with half strength solution as required in the mean time. Whenever you replace a batch or top up an existing one, check and adjust the pH level. For any further advice call our technical team on 0845 345 5176.

Storage and handling of pH adjustment and calibration solutions

1.) Keep all aggressive chemicals under lock and key

2.) Keep out of reach of children

3.) Wear goggles, gloves and appropriate safety clothing when handling aggressive liquids

4.) Never mix pH Up and Down

5.) Store pH Up and Down separately

Dilution of pH adjustment solutions

pH adjustment solutions are sold in highly concentrated forms to make them as cost effective as possible for the end user. For safety and ease of use, we strongly recommend diluting the products before application.

1.) Diluted solutions are safer to handle

2.) Diluted solutions are easier to use – more is needed, so dosing is less critical (less chance of mistakes)

When diluting, never add water to the adjustment solutions – always add them to water. Adding the acids first and then the water could cause an aggressive reaction.

	Code		Price	Qty
	1313	The Tri-Meter	£135.00	Out of stock
	7520	Accuread pH Meter	£39.95		Add to Basket
	0123	Liquid pH Test Kit 4.0 - 8.5	£5.50		Add to Basket
	0125	pH 7 Buffer - 250mls	£3.95		Add to Basket
	0130	pH Down - 250mls	£4.95		Add to Basket
	0131	pH Down - 1 Litre	£9.95		Add to Basket
	0885	pH Down - 5 Litre	£39.95		Add to Basket
	1221	Nitric Acid - 1 Litre	£8.95		Add to Basket
	0128	pH Up - 250mls	£4.95		Add to Basket
	0129	pH Up - 1 Litre	£9.95		Add to Basket
	0008	25 Litre Blue Bucket including Lid	£7.50		Add to Basket
	0432	Nutrient Measuring Syringe - 10mls	£0.70		Add to Basket
	0615	Nutrient Measuring Syringe - 20mls	£1.25		Add to Basket
	0386	Nutrient Measuring Syringe - 50mls	£2.50		Add to Basket
	0514	Nutrient Measuring Syringe - 100mls	£4.00		Add to Basket
	1517	60ml Measuring Cup	£0.65		Add to Basket
	1540	500ml Measuring Jug	£1.45		Add to Basket
	1546	1 Litre Measuring Jug	£1.95		Add to Basket

I am also going to water the soil plant, adding nothing else other than Hygrozyme to the mix because the nutrients are still coming from the growing medium. You should water the plant little and often rather than saturating the soil – a method I have already put into practice since transplanting. The aim is to develop the root zone, and by not saturating the soil, it forces the roots to go in search of water, thus developing the root mass. Likewise, a careful and measured approach to watering allows the root zone to access the oxygen required for excellent root development.

If you recall during the initial set up, I bought and prepared two buckets, which will make the whole process of feeding my plants so much easier. Instead of having to store the net pot somewhere safe whilst draining, washing and refilling the one bucket with fresh nutrient solution, I am able to prepare the new batch of nutrients in the second bucket. Consequently I can move the airstones over and simply put the lid containing the net pot and the plant straight onto the new bucket.

After leaving some water to stand in the bucket overnight, I added the Vita Link Grow nutrient and adjusted the pH levels in exactly the same way as before. The only change I made involved increasing the strength of the nutrient solution to 3ml of part A and 3ml of part B per litre. Once I could see the pH level had sufficiently reduced, I switched my attention to transferring the airstones.

I loosened the lid of my bubbler system and reached in to remove the airstones, closely watching not to disturb the roots. I always like to give the airstones a clean before relocating to a new bucket. Whilst they were soaking, I removed the airline, gave that a quick clean too and fed it through the new bucket’s hole. As soon as the airstones had been cleaned, I reattached each one to the airline and switched the air pump back on.

All that then remained to do was to carefully transfer the lid containing the net pot and plant onto the new bucket. Here you get the chance to check the roots, looking for when they begin to come out of the net pot.

I have had a few comments and suggestions come through, which shall be replied to soon, and I may even implement some of the suggestions in next weeks entry. Please keep them coming, it's great that you're taking the time to get involved!

Each and every hydro grower has to learn how to correctly mix nutrient solutions. It is through this process that the ability to assert control over feeding regimes becomes possible – one of the main benefits associated with soilless gardening. The idea of adjusting pH can often seem quite daunting, so we’ve compiled a comprehensive guide that covers everything you need to know.

Definition of pH

pH is short for Potential of Hydrogen. It refers to the measurement of acidity in solutions, using a scale that identifies acidic solutions as those with a pH of less than 7 (the closer to 0, the more acidic) and alkaline solutions as those with a pH of more than 7 (the closer to 14, the more basic). Pure water has a pH of around 7, representing the neutral position.

Although the numbers on the pH scale only appear to be separated by a factor of one, the actual difference is x10. Consequently a solution registering 5 on the pH scale proves 10 times more acidic than a solution of 6 and 100 times more acidic than a solution of 7. These are quite significant increases and decreases – which should help you to see the importance of taking precise readings and corrective action.

Impact of pH on plants

The closer the relationship is between the pH level of your nutrient solution and the preferred pH level of your particular plants, the more effective they will be at absorbing the essential elements from the solution. Different plants have different pH preferences for optimum growth, but most varieties favourably respond to anything between 5.5 and 6.0 (a slightly acidic growing environment). A lot of plants start to experience problems when the pH ventures beyond 6.5, usually because nutrients precipitate out of the solution and are then no longer available.

pH should always be a key reference point if you want to ensure that nutrients are readily available for your plants.

Punishment for failing to check and change pH levels will come in the form of undesirable looking plants and nutrient solution. A particularly low pH may cause lockout of Magnesium (Mg) leading to leaf curl, yellowing of leaf tips and yellowing of the veins of older leaves, as well as nutrient precipitation (where solid salts form out of your solution). On the flip side a high pH often stops plants from accessing Nitrogen (N), again yellowing leaves and also stunting growth. If a poor growing environment exists too, expect to find fungal growth in your nutrient tank/reservoir.

Having taken this information on board, you now need to get hold of the necessary grow room tools!

Tooling up

We recommend equipping yourself with accurate and reliable tools for monitoring pH values. The Tri-Meter measures both the cF and pH of your nutrient solution, whilst the Hobby pH Meter and manual pH testers are used solely for the latter task.

All three options require manual calibration with pH buffers. The Tri-Meter also needs to be calibrated for cF.

Calibrating a meter is relatively easy. You just pop a little bit of calibration fluid into a cup and test the reading of the meter. If it returns a value of over 7.0, place the provided screwdriver into a little hole found at the back and tweak until correct.

To properly maintain pH testing equipment and ensure consistently reliable readings, always wash the parts that are dipped into nutrient solutions with clean water and then wipe dry using a suitable piece of cloth.

Being able to increase and decrease the pH reading requires that you have pH Up alongside one of pH Down, Organic pH Down or Nitric Acid. These three methods of reducing the pH figure simply use different chemicals to do the job.

More often than not you will apply pH down rather than pH Up. A safe method of reducing the pH level is to first add several small drops of pH down to a litre of water before then adding this weaker pH solution to your nutrient, a few mls at a time until you hit your target. A single drop added directly to the nutrient could result in the pH level plummeting, so by adopting this method you won’t have to use pH Up to correct it.

In addition to these pH products, we recommend the following items for mixing nutrient solutions: a cF meter (if you’ve not got a Tri-Meter), a large bucket, a nutrient measuring syringe, a measuring jug/cup, protective glasses and protective gloves.

Using the pH level to determine your need for hard or soft nutrients

Determining whether you’re in a hard or soft water area takes nothing more than a simple review of tap water pH and cF levels.

Begin by filling up a bucket with tap water and leave it to stand for 24 hours – this allows the water to reach room temperature (accurate pH and cF readings are made at 25^oC) and gives any present chlorine enough time to evaporate. Then dip a pH meter and cF meter (or manual pH tester) into the water and check the readings. If the pH is 7.8 or above and the cF is 8 or above, you require hard water nutrients. If the pH is below 7.7 and the cF is below 7, opt for soft water nutrients.

Checking pH

With the nutrient solution in your system, check the pH level using your pH meter - the ideal reading is around 5.8 when growing in rockwool slabs and between 6.3-6.8 for NFT/ Flood & Drain/ DWC. If the pH is too high add a few drops of pH Down to reduce it, if it is too low resort to a minute amount of pH Up.

The nutrient solution is now ready for your plants. You generally need to replace this with a fresh batch every week, topping up with half strength solution as required in the mean time. Whenever you replace a batch or top up an existing one, check and adjust the pH level. For any further advice call our technical team on 0845 345 5176.

Storage and handling of pH adjustment and calibration solutions

1.) Keep all aggressive chemicals under lock and key

2.) Keep out of reach of children

3.) Wear goggles, gloves and appropriate safety clothing when handling aggressive liquids

4.) Never mix pH Up and Down

5.) Store pH Up and Down separately

Dilution of pH adjustment solutions

pH adjustment solutions are sold in highly concentrated forms to make them as cost effective as possible for the end user. For safety and ease of use, we strongly recommend diluting the products before application.

1.) Diluted solutions are safer to handle

2.) Diluted solutions are easier to use – more is needed, so dosing is less critical (less chance of mistakes)

When diluting, never add water to the adjustment solutions – always add them to water. Adding the acids first and then the water could cause an aggressive reaction.

	Code		Price	Qty
	0008	25 Litre Blue Bucket including Lid	£7.50		Add to Basket
	0573	Blue Economy Air Stone 50mm	£1.50		Add to Basket
	0063	Air Line (per metre)	£0.35		Add to Basket
	1106	Budget Air Pump (Single Outlet - 1.6 Litres/minute)	£6.95		Add to Basket
	1107	Budget Air Pump (Double Outlet - 2 x 2.0 Litres/minute)	£12.95		Add to Basket
	1108	Budget Air Pump (Four Outlets - 4 x 2.5 Litres/minute)	£14.95		Add to Basket
	6801	14.4cm Heavy Duty Net Pot	£1.29		Add to Basket
	3054	Hygrozyme 500 mls	£24.95		Add to Basket
	0127	Hygrozyme 1 Litre	£37.95		Add to Basket
	0174	Hygrozyme 4 Litre	£144.95		Add to Basket
	0544	Clay Pebbles - 10 Litres	£4.50		Add to Basket
	0082	Clay Pebbles - 45 Litres	£14.95		Add to Basket
	8148	Clay Pebbles - 45 Litres (PALLET Qty x33)	£495.00		Add to Basket

I don’t like to open on a negative note, but this is often a worrying time for any grower. All the effort and hard work spent nurturing plants through the early stages of growth can very quickly be undone by them failing to take to the new environment – an admittedly slightly higher risk in the hydroponic set up.

The weather was not on my side, given that the days following the transplanting represented the coldest of the winter so far. However, I made slight adjustments to the timing of the grow room heater to overcome the possibility of a problem.

Here we can see after four days the plants look fine… well, the same as they did before anyway. Thankfully no sign of change is definitely a good thing. If the plants had not taken there would already be evidence of this – namely drooping leaves, but the plant in the bubbler system seems quite happy. The roots are hopefully flourishing too. Disrupting the plant to check on them whilst still in a delicate stage is unnecessary, I am hoping that when I change my nutrients in the next few days the roots will be coming out of the net pot.

The soil plant also appears to be nice and healthy. As I did not water the plant after transplanting, the roots were encouraged to grow and spread in search of it – justifying my actions. Remembering that in an indoor environment the lights can dry out the soil, I’ve decided to give the plant a little water with some Hygrozyme. I used 2ml per litre of water (left to stand to allow the chlorine to dissipate) and added about a litre, there or thereabouts.

Happy that both plants seemed ok, I left them to continue in their vegetative stage.

Next time – Changing Nutrients

	Code		Price	Qty
	3054	Hygrozyme 500 mls	£24.95		Add to Basket
	0127	Hygrozyme 1 Litre	£37.95		Add to Basket
	0174	Hygrozyme 4 Litre	£144.95		Add to Basket

The Budget Reflector (left) is open end, whereas the SunMate (right) is closed end

Air Cooled: incorporates an extraction system to move heat away from the lamp

Non-Air Cooled: no separate extraction system to move heat away from the lamp

Open-End: reflective material only surrounds two sides of lamp to reflect light

Closed-End: all four sides surround the lamp to reflect light

The majority of reflectors fall into the “non-air cooled” group, either being “open-end” or “closed-end”. A further subdivision of “open-end” reflectors is “flexible” reflectors, which feature unique adjustable reflector wings. This advanced type of design can be seen most effectively utilised by the Adjusta-Wing and White Adjusta-Wing models.

For a time the Adjusta-Wing was the only “flexible” choice available, specifically targeted at more serious and professional growers. It quickly garnered a lot of positive reviews and eventually became known as “the ultimate” reflector, a deserved title still relevant to today. But with the recent introduction of the White Adjusta-Wing, the numerous benefits of the flexible reflector have begun opening up to entirely new audiences.

Several features shared by both the Adjusta-Wing and White Adjusta-Wing put the flexible design above rival options in the minds of many people. They are the following:

Adjustable Wing Design

As your plants grow bigger, flexible reflectors can be moved closer and closer to the plant canopy – much more so than any competing alternatives. This becomes possible through gradual adjustment of the wings, whereby you flatten out and widen the overall span every time the distance separating the reflector and plant tops is reduced (always attempting to maintain the optimum 1.5m width of light). Positioning a winged reflector immediately above your plants for two or more weeks will drastically improve light penetration, helping it filter down to stimulate existing lower flowering sites whilst also triggering additional blooms and fruit sets.

Moveable Lampholder Position

A moveable lampholder position, in addition to the aforementioned adjustable wing design, lets the Adjusta-Wing and White Adjusta-Wing give you the highest degree of control over light spread. Each change made to the wingspan usually requires a subsequent alteration to the lampholder position, as this provides a reliable means of ensuring that light continues to adequately cover all plants. Just remember to keep a watch out for the emergence of any dark shaded areas, regularly checking how the light appears on your grow room floor.

At the start of the vegetative period you should be hanging the reflector relatively high up in your grow room, positioning the lampholder quite far away from the underside of it and aiming to achieve maximum downwards focus (don’t forget the recommended 1.5m width of light). By the flowering stage, you will ideally want the reflector suspended just above plant tops with very little space between them and a wide spread of light, adjusting the lampholder position as and when required.

Free Heat Shield Super Spreader

The Adjusta-Wing and White Adjusta-Wing also include a fantastic Heat Shield Super Spreader for no extra cost, which you attach to the bottom of the lampholder to help deflect heat and distribute light. If your reflector is hanging low this handy accessory will prove essential, countering the potential problem of a hot spot developing in the immediate growing area below it. Plants located here would otherwise receive greater levels of light and therefore grow more than those situated further away, leading to uneven results across your crop.

During the latter stages of the plant life cycle we recommend attaching the Heat Shield Super Spreader and moving the lampholder as close as possible to the reflector to create a minor shadow in the centre of the light spread, thus negating the effect of a hot spot. Right before harvest (when fruiting sites have been activated and multiple fruit sets are formed) you need to create a “fake” Autumn for plants by slowly moving the reflector upwards, simultaneously narrowing the focus and adjusting the lampholder to even out light spread.

Dimensions, Coverage & Assembly

With wings stretched out, the Adjusta-Wing and White Adjusta-Wing measure 55cm (length) x 75cm (width). Both reflectors have been designed to cover an area of 1.5m x 1.2m. For optimum performance attempt to keep the 1.5m wide spread of light irrespective of the hanging height.

The reflectors are sold flat pack and require a little bit of basic assembly, referring to the step-by-step manufacturer instructions supplied.

Given that the adjustable wing design, moveable lampholder position and heat shield super spreader relate to both flexible reflectors, what then sets apart the Adjusta-Wing from the White Adjusta-Wing?

Essentially it all comes down to surface material.

The Shining

An inspection of the reflectors surfaces reveals that clear differences exist. The White Adjusta-Wing has a very reflective, titanium, powder coated finish, deemed suitable for 9 out of 10 scenarios and capable of satisfying growers with the highest standards and demands. However, the Adjusta-Wing is really something else! Its jaw-dropping 98% reflective Vega/Miro aluminium surface simply cannot be beaten in terms of reflectivity, with only a tiny amount of light produced from the lamp being absorbed upon reflection – the vast remainder is free to head down and out towards your plants! Consequently the Adjusta-Wing represents the perfectionist’s choice.

So how do you decide which reflector is right for your set up? Ask yourself this one question – am I trying to grow a great crop, or the greatest? If your heart is set on reaching the pinnacle of plant performance, the only option is an Adjusta-Wing… our ultimate reflector!

	Code		Price	Qty
	0953	Adjust-a-Wing Avenger Reflector only (IEC connection)	£85.00		Add to Basket

As always I adopt a methodical approach, initially making sure that all the required equipment is available and ready to use.

For the soil-based plant, I am following the procedure outlined in the soil-transplanting article (found here) by pre soaking the media with a Hygrozyme and Superthrive solution. Most soils come pre fertilised these days and the Canna Professional brand I’m using proves no different. However I have decided to add Hygrozyme because of the numerous beneficial enzymes contained inside that aid plant performance and help bring the soil to life, and Superthrive because of the stress relieving qualities that are invaluable to a plant adjusting to a new environment. Before introducing the plant, pre soak the medium for several hours – maybe even over night – to “wake it up” and avoid the subsidence associated with watering in dry soil.

I let the pre soaked soil stand for a few hours and returned my focus to the hydro grow. The bubbler system has already been set up and tested, so all I need to sort out is the nutrients. Considering that I’ve never demonstrated how to mix up a batch before, the next few steps document this process.

First of all I fill half the bucket with water and leave it standing for a few hours, allowing the chlorine to dissipate.

Then I bring in my choice of nutrients – Vita Link Max. I will start by consulting the guidelines on the bottles to create a half strength feed.

With the bucket about half full – probably equating to 12 litres of water or so – I refer to the bottles guidelines of 2-3ml per litre for young plants and add 25ml of part A and 25ml of part B, stirring thoroughly afterwards.

This is the ideal moment to add some Hygrozyme and Superthrive. Many of the advantages these stimulants bring about in soil also carry over to hydroponic methods.

Following another good stir, I check pH levels – the importance of which must never be overlooked. Optimum pH for feeds usually varies according to the type of plant your growing, but finding out the most effective target figure and hitting it will let you maximise the amount of nutrient absorbed by the plant, obviously leading to improved performance. I definitely suggest equipping yourself with a digital pH pen, one of those essential little items for any hydro grower.

The initial pH reading was 6.9, therefore necessitating a slight adjustment. To reduce the pH I concocted a weakened solution, recommended action given that pH Down comes in a very concentrated form. Protective gear such as vinyl gloves and goggles should also be worn and care taken during handling of the aggressive liquid. If I were to add two drops of neat pH down to my 12 litres of water the level could fall significantly, possibly beyond the pH 3 mark – meaning I’d need to throw everything away and begin again.

I squeezed a couple of drops of pH Down into a litre of water, and then introduced a few ml of this mixture to my nutrient solution. Adding 5ml of the weak solution dropped it to 6.6, and only a tiny amount more allowed me to achieve the desired pH level of 6.5.

Now the nutrient solution is good to go!

Next I fed the air line back through the hole cut at the top of the bucket, attached the airstones and finally placed them into the bucket. Just to double check everything was working I switched the pump back on and watched as the bubbles started.

I left the air pump running to aerate the nutrients before putting the plant in position. With the soil also prepared, everything appeared ready to finally move the plants into the systems, where they will spend the rest of their lives.

I selected the two healthiest looking plants for transplanting. Using my hands I scooped a hole in my pot of nicely watered soil, big enough to accommodate the first plant. I like to gently disturb the soil at the bottom of the hole to prevent it from compacting and give the roots an easier ride as they settle in to a new environment. Then I simply moved the plant from the small pot to a larger one. Carefully squeeze each side of the pot to loosen the soil inside and remove the plant by holding it firmly at the base of the stalk. If you encounter any difficulties, stop and give the pot another squeeze. The roots, as you would expect after a couple of extra weeks, are well developed - appearing white and healthy. You can manipulate the root zone to loosen the roots if desired, but be careful not to damage them. Place the plant into the hole and fill any gaps to secure it in the pot. Since the soil has been watered I prefer not to water the plant in at this point, instead allowing the roots to seek out the water already in the soil. A most, a little water around the outside of the pot is all you need.

The hydroponic plant was placed in a small pot of pebbles to keep the developing roots from suffering. I expected the roots to have grown into the pebbles, but first wanted to prepare the bubbler system. I placed a few well washed pebbles into the net pot and then attempted to remove the plant from its current pot. Again holding the base of the stem, I very carefully eased the plant out. As the roots had grown into the pebbles, I took extra care not to damage them. It came out quite easily, allowing the roots to be examined. They too looked white and healthy, if not as plentiful as those of the soil plant. I held the plant with the tips of the roots just touching the pebbles and poured more pebbles in until the net pot reached maximum capacity. I then adjusted the pebbles until the plant was stable and no obvious gaps showed up. As well as providing stability and space for the roots to grow, the pebbles also prevent any light from penetrating into the root zone.

At last both plants were securely in their new homes and settling in! It is well worth carrying out regular checks when you have transplanted plants into any system. The change of environment can be a shock for them, so keeping alert lets you catch any problems early on.

Precipitation is a chemical reaction that affects liquid solutions and results in the formation of small insoluble solids – the exact opposite of the dissolving process. Rain, snow, sleet and hail are all good examples of precipitation, each of which falls to earth because of water condensing from the air.

What does precipitation have to do with growing plants?

A number of nutrient and booster products can precipitate in their bottles when certain conditions happen to be present, making them un-usable unless dealt with appropriately (see below: Avoiding and overcoming precipitation related problems). Complications also arise if you fail to properly mix your nutrients and water together, since the former must have completely dissolved for roots to access the crucial minerals.

How do I identify if I have precipitated nutrients/boosters and nutrient solutions?

Bottles containing precipitated nutrients or boosters produce a “rattling” sound after being gently shaken, almost as though tiny shards of glass exist inside. Typically you find that mineral based feeds and boosters are susceptible to precipitation – none more so than Flora Grow, Bloom CALMAG and Bloom PK.

For a freshly mixed nutrient solution, telltale signs of precipitation include clouding of the feed and, imagining the worst-case long-term scenario, yellowing leaves attributing to nutrient deficiency.

What causes precipitation of nutrients/boosters and nutrient solutions?

Persistent cold weather will lead to the precipitation of some bottled nutrients and boosters if they are left exposed to it, so you should set up a storage area where temperatures remain above 10^oC. Thankfully these conditions only facilitate the precipitation process in concentrated products, however, nutrient solutions do still need adequate heating provisions to protect roots from the general threats of freezing conditions.

Another reason for precipitation, and the more common of the two, is extremes in pH. A reading of between 5.5 and 6.5 helps ensure that every vital element stays available to the plant, anything significantly higher or lower though and you can expect nutrient lockout.

Avoiding and overcoming precipitation related problems

Clearly your initial aim should be to try and avoid ending up with bottles of precipitated nutrients and boosters. The key to achieving this is sensible storage – keep products out of direct sunlight, in a cool and dark place, with temperatures between 10^oC and 19^oC. Taking such precautions gives you an excellent chance of avoiding precipitation related problems.

When a bottled nutrient or booster does precipitate, stand it in a bowl of hot water or place the item above a radiator and leave until the contents warm up. Every now and again tilt the bottle to move the liquid around, listening out for rattling noises. Once these have faded away and you can just hear liquid, the product is ready to use with immediate effect.

To mix nutrient solutions so that they don’t precipitate, always closely follow tried and trusted methods. For the example of a desired 10 litre batch of nutrient solution made from water and feed split into A and B concentrate, begin by introducing part A to an empty tank or reservoir, then add the 10 litres of water, and finally pour in part B. Ensure the first concentrate is well mixed with the water before adding the second concentrate, and only make pH adjustments to the full volume of water – never mixing pH up and pH down. This should already be an established routine of yours and we merely only want to reiterate its importance.

In the instance of a precipitated nutrient solution, you are limited to one option – disposing of the batch and starting again. There is nothing else we can suggest to resolve the issue.

Why do I need to worry about precipitation?   

The average grower has an awful lot of considerations to make during a crop cycle, from the picking of a strategy for room temperatures, pest control measures and feed schedules through to the choosing of particular products and brands. Admittedly precipitation doesn’t tend to hamper plants as often as issues like bugs and heat, yet you should still take the threat of it occurring very seriously indeed – especially at this time of year.

Transplanting soil-based plants proves far simpler than transplanting hydroponically grown plants since you do not have to worry about pH levels. It does, however, take a little longer to finish.

Before getting started, I want to reiterate when the best time is to transplant. You’ll usually find action needs taking once the roots appear on the outside of the jiffy pellets, as unprotected and exposed, these are prone to disease and rot. Obviously this can negatively affect plant health and development.

Here roots have begun to protrude from the jiffy pellet. They are not as pronounced as the roots in the rockwool seed cubes, but if left could easily dry out and die. The rockwool seeds benefit from being protected against the light by the plastic tray – which also keeps the moisture levels up. Seedlings in the jiffy pellets do not get to enjoy this luxury.

The first step in transplanting soil-based seedlings involves pre soaking the growing media with some water that has been allowed to stand for a while. I am using soil that contains a sufficient amount of nutrient for the first few weeks, so I do not need to put any more into my water just yet. Nevertheless, I will add Hygrozyme – a fantastic product primarily designed to introduce beneficial enzymes and remove dead organic matter, aiding plant development and nutrient uptake as well as preventing disease.

After mixing 3ml of Hygrozyme into my water, I add the solution to some soil that I have in a saucer. You do not want the soil to become sodden, more a nice moist consistency. Then simply leave the moist soil for about a day or night.

Whereas in hydroponic systems you tailor nutrients to be directly accessible to the plant, with soil the microbiological process breaks it down. I am not conducting an organic grow – which requires the breaking down of more complex organic elements – but this process remains an important aspect of any soil grow. Pre soaking the soil brings it to life so that when I pot on, the seedling is all ready to go.

Once the soil had been left for long enough I could move on to the next stage – preparing the pots. At the time you come to put soil into pots, especially moistened soil, do not compact it down. If you ignore this advice and choose to compress the soil, there is less available space for those all-important air pockets that oxygenate the roots, potentially hindering plant development as a result. When I filled the pots, I gently sprinkled the media in and gave the lot a light shake.

With the pot a little over half full, I created a hole in the soil by gently manipulating it. The hole needed to be deep enough and wide enough to accommodate the jiffy pellet, and no trouble to the roots when placed inside.

I carefully placed the jiffy pellet into the hole and then topped up the soil to just about cover over everything. Because the soil has been pre soaked I do not water them in at this stage. Instead by delaying the watering I am encouraging the roots to search out the moisture. I popped the pots back in my propagation tent and left them to settle into their new home.

Next time – Grow room preparation.

You should aim to transplant your seedlings when roots can be seen coming out of the cubes – a surefire sign that the plants have grown sufficiently enough for the current environment. If the seedlings are not transplanted at this point, the roots may get damaged and cause unnecessary stress to the rest of the plants.

Products I intend to use include the three inch Grodan Transplanting Cubes, some Vita Link Plant Start, a drop of SuperThrive, a saucer in which to soak the cubes and our pH measuring and adjusting equipment.

The first step towards creating a nutrient solution is always to ensure that the water has been given time to stand and allow for the chlorine to dissipate. This can take place overnight, or at least just a few hours. Then add the nutrient – the Vita Link Plant Start here. I mixed 3ml of the “baby plant food” with just over ½ a litre of water and a drop of SuperThrive.

After adding the nutrients, you should check the pH and carry out any required adjustments. My initial reading was 7.4, so I had to drop it slightly to reach a target of 6.5. When altering the pH, mix the pH Down to some water for easier application. I added a few drops to a litre of water and then gradually increased this by a couple of drops at a time, constantly checking the pH level until I achieved the desired reading.

To pre soak the transplanting cubes I poured my nutrient solution into a saucer and then placed the cubes inside to soak it up. Once they had rested there for a few minutes, I gave the cubes a squeeze to remove most of the excess nutrient solution. Remember you only want them to be damp, not soaking.

The next stage is to place the seed cube into the transplanting cube, gently adjusting the former to ensure that there are no gaps through which the light can penetrate and damage the roots.

Today I am going to solely focus on the bubbler system. Some people would argue that little effort is required to establish the soil plant, but as we shall discover, you must do more than merely put media in a pot.

Lets kick off with the shopping list.

Getting the gear!

2 x 25 Litre Blue Buckets with Lids (the reasons

for buying two buckets will become clear later)

1 x 14.4cm Heavy Duty Net Pot

1 x Double Outlet Budget Air Pump

2 x Blue Economy Air Stones 50mm

3m of Air Line (I won’t necessarily use all of the 3m but prefer to play safe and always carry a little extra)

I also equip myself with a pen and a sharp knife (I chose a trusty Stanley knife).

Getting down to business!

My aim is to set up the bubbler system and ensure it works prior to introducing the plant.

The first step involves cutting a hole into one of the blue bucket lids. You need to make this big enough for the majority of the net pot to fit inside, but not so big that the whole thing falls through. Already you can identify a benefit of having two buckets – a spare if the first one goes wrong. Cutting the hole is not always a simple task and I recommend using the downloadable template from the GroWell website.

After drawing the circle, carefully cut the plastic. I harp on about safely handling equipment throughout your grow and I therefore feel obliged to urge caution when forming the hole. The plastic lid proves quite tough to pierce and could easily slip, especially if the knife is not particularly sharp.

With the hole safely cut, check to see that the net pot can be accommodated and carefully trim off any excess to ensure a snug fit.

While I am using the knife it is worth carving a small hole in the actual blue bucket, towards the top, by the indentation to open the lid. Carefully push the knife through the plastic and dissect a small rectangular hole – the air pipe will feed through here.

Next I cut the silicon air line tube in half, leaving me with 2 x 1.5 metre lengths. Insert one end of both bits through the rectangular hole and attach the blue economy air stones.

Join the other end of both the strips of air line to the air pump. There is no point switching on the air pump to see if it works until you have half filled the bucket with water. Then I can switch on the air pump, and if everything works correctly, plenty of bubbles should begin emerging from the air stones.

Finally I pop the lid accommodating the net pot into place over the blue bucket.

Next edition I plan on transplanting the seed cubes and jiffy pellets.

Since this is an attempt at a basic grow, I am choosing to use a low priced light system and budget extraction kit. I have, however, afforded myself one luxury item in the shape of a top of the range XL BudBox Tent. Although a suitable grow area could be created in the room with some plastic sheeting, a BudBox helps improve overall control of the environment, cleanliness and bug prevention, conveniently separating plants off from the immediate surroundings. These tents include a very durable cover and super sturdy framework that will stand up to numerous crops, and they therefore represent a worthwhile long-term investment.

For my modest lighting requirements I have selected the brand new 600 Watt Proxima system. At £69.95 you’ll struggle to find a better-priced bundle of lamp, ballast and reflector – so I intend to assess just how much value is on offer.

High pressure sodium lighting systems should always be used with a contactor when controlling on/off light periods via a timer, otherwise the initial surge of power will fuse the timer in the “on” position – a particularly serious problem during flowering. Having a contactor in place works to divert the initial surge of power away

from the timer, keeping the whole system working nicely.

Some people suggest that you do not need a contactor if you are running a 250 Watt lighting system, but I recommend one for all HPS systems. Needless to say I am not going to be taking any risks.

The budget extraction kit includes all parts necessary to establish a ventilation system – i.e. the power lead, ducting, jubilee clips and of course the fan and budget filter. Despite being a budget option, the filter selected ranks surprisingly highly in terms of quality. It features the same activated charcoal granules for air filtration as premium filters, only differing because of the 9-month lifespan (as opposed to 18 months with premium) and the unavailability of refills. The extraction system always has to correlate to the number of lights in the room, and here the 100mm kit perfectly suits my single 600 Watt set up.

With the grow area clear of clutter, clean and ready for action, I am now able to piece together my equipment. As always I perform a quick check to ensure that nothing is missing. I stress doing this before starting any assembly to avoid inconvenient delays half way through the process.

BudBoxes are relatively simple to construct courtesy of colour-coded poles and clear instructions. In no time at all I had the framework assembled, but I would just like to point out that I ignored the advice to put the hanging bars on before the cover. Once I completed the frame the instructions told me to spread out the cover and lay the framework on its side inside the cover, which saw the hanging bars continue to fall off – so I put them aside for later.

After attaching the cover, I stood the tent back up and admired my work. Honestly it had gone a lot easier than I expected! That said I still had an item left over which the BudBox instructions failed to mention. This mystery feature was the waterproof catchment tray according to my GroWell instructions, a vital component designed to sit on the tent floor. Not to worry, I simply installed the tray by using Velcro loops. I then positioned the hanging bars to complete the tent.

It is sensible to set up the extraction kit next because this usually hangs towards the back of the tent – an otherwise difficult section to reach with a light already suspended.

To wire up the fan I first needed to hunt down a screwdriver. Afterwards I removed the cover and trimmed the earth wire, following the step-by-step instructions all the way until work on the fan was done. I plugged the unit into the mains to make sure everything worked and to ensure I knew which way the air would flow – an important factor to consider because it must be sucked through the carbon filter for effective ventilation. Once I had identified the exhaust side, I attached a short length of ducting to the other side using a jubilee clip, and attached the other end to the filter itself. Then I fixed the longer length of ducting to the exhaust, to transport the warm air away from the tent.

Hanging the extraction kit on my own was going to be challenging, but not impossible. I started by measuring up lengths of chain, which I then suspended from the supporting beams of the tent via s-hooks. Next I simply had to slide the filter into place. I adopted a slightly different approach to the one shown in the instructions, going for the extra security of having four chains supporting the extraction kit - two for the filter and two for the fan. With the filter now supported, I took one hand to bear the weight of the fan whilst attaching chain loops to either side of the fan unit.

The whole system could be left alone to hang at this stage so I fed the plug through one of the ports in the tent, and the ducting through the chimney hole in the roof, pulling the drawstring tight against it. That concludes setting up the extraction kit. Only the light system remains…

Magnetic ballasts like the Proxima model can get quite hot at times, meaning you should try to locate them outside of the grow area when possible – ideally in a well-ventilated room. I also recommend always sitting the unit on a firm solid surface, and never carpet. These precautions will help prevent any problems and aid the performance of the ballast.

Following the standard checks for faulty equipment, I connected the IEC plugs on the ballast and reflector and securely screwed in the bulb. If the bulb is not securely fitted then the electricity can arc, leading to unreliability issues and shortened lamp cycles. I plugged it in and flicked the switch, firing up the ballast and sparking the bulb into life. In a matter of moments the bulb was near to full brightness. Satisfied everything was working correctly, I switched the products off and allowed the bulb to cool down.

To hang the reflector I opted for handy Ezi Roll Light Hangers. A few links of chain and s-hooks later and I had managed to connect the Ezi Rollers to the hanging bar in the tent. I then carefully propped up the hanging brackets on the reflector with a screwdriver and tied it to the Ezi Rollers. Finally I fed the cable through the same hole as the power lead for the fan and connected this back up to the ballast. Another quick operational check and a clean of the tent after standing in it to put the light up, and I was done.

Equipment you will need for taking cuttings:

-       propagator,

-       scalpel,

-       clonex,

-       measuring cup,

-       seed cubes,

-       propagation light, and

-       sprayer.

This example features Fleximix Root Riot Cubes, pre soaked with water and ready for use. We recommend getting a new scalpel and measuring cup every time you take cuttings to avoid the risk of contamination.

As you will always find, being prepared matters a great deal. If the propagator is not a new one, conduct a thorough cleaning of the item with a product like RoomClean. Pour some Clonex into the measuring cup so that the cutting can be immediately placed into it.

The first necessary task involves identifying a healthy growing tip and removing some of the lower leaves. Areas exposed through removing of the leaves are called nodal intersections – these can be recognised by a slight bulge in the stem of the plant.

Using the scalpel, make a diagonal cut at this intersection, leaving the largest possible area for the Clonex to aid root growth. Once the cutting has been removed from the mother plant, quickly place it into the measuring cup containing the Clonex and leave for about two minutes.

While the cutting is in the Clonex, the cubes can be prepared. Here four cubes were cut off the main pack and labelled up with the plant variety.

The need to have accurate labelling often gets overlooked when taking cuttings. This simple measure allows you to know exactly what plant the cutting was taken from – common sense really! We are only taking cuttings from one plant, but for numerous plants it is recommended that you label both the cuttings and the mother.

Once the cutting has rested in the Clonex for around two minutes, transfer to the seed cube (each Fleximix cube comes with a pre made hole). Gently insert the cutting into the hole until it is held secure. Repeat the process for all the cuttings you need, plus a few spares. We required four cuttings so eight were taken. As a general rule, always take twice the amount of cuttings you actually need – this allows for one or two failures and also increases your choice when reviewing the best performing cuttings to then focus on.

Position the seed cubes in your propagator and lightly mist the cuttings with water using the sprayer. It is crucial that the cuttings are not sat in water, but equally important that the cubes do not dry out either. Next place the lid on the propagator, close the vents and pop underneath the propagation light.

After a few hours there should be a light misting of moisture in the propagator. At this point open the vents slightly to try and maintain a humidity level of between 73 – 83%.

Every couple of days wipe away the moisture on the lid, mist with water, replace the lid and gradually open the vents. The temperature should be between 21 and 26 degrees. During the winter months a heated propagator helps maintain this ideal temperature and increases success rates.

10 to 20 days later roots will start to emerge from each seed cube. The cutting can then be transplanted into the main pot or system used for the rest of the cycle.

Two main points to remember are:

1.) All of the equipment must be clean to prevent the risk of contamination, and

2.) The cuttings should be regularly misted and the propagator wiped to maintain optimum conditions.

What is a Linear Light Mover?

A Linear Light Mover consists of a rail and a motor unit. After adequately supporting each end of the rail so that it stands level, you then attach your reflector to the motor unit using chain (ensuring the rail is level stops the rubbers from wearing out and producing squeaking noises). The motor unit will carry your reflector back and forth along the rail, stopping at each end for a customisable interval.

The benefits of a Linear Light Mover

1.) Maximum coverage and yield from your lights. You can use less lights to cover the same area - and less lights equals less heat.

2.) Adjustable delay for up to 60 second stoppages at each end of the rail. This helps ensure you get very even plant growth.

3.) Closer lamp positions to plant tops. The constant movement of your light means that top leaves are not given an opportunity to crisp.

4.) Distribute light to all parts of your plants.

5.) Move an additional light end to end with an add-a-lamp kit.

When might I use a Linear Light Mover?

If you've got any unused space available in your grow room and want to fill it with plants, chances are that a Linear Light Mover could help provide all the necessary light for quick and effective development.

As an example, you might own a 2.4m x 1.2m area and be using a 600 Watt light that only covers 1.2m x 1.2m at an optimum level – leaving around a metre of potential growing space.

Whilst the most obvious means of filling this space with the required light to grow more plants is to add another 600 Watt system, you must remember that your extraction set up would then need upgrading too. The purchase of a brand new lighting system, a bigger extraction kit and also possibly an intake fan, plus the prospect of an increasing electricity bill, certainly makes it the more expensive available option. But the incredible amount of light you get from two 600 Watt systems will still tempt the experts out there and understandably so!

On the other hand, you could employ a reliable Linear Light Mover such as our LightRail to repeatedly ferry your existing lamp and reflector from one end of a 1.8m rail to the opposite and back again. In this scenario the light will actually spread quite far beyond the stretch of rail – a further 0.4m at each end to be precise. Therefore by using a Linear Light Mover you get an impressive 2.8m of total coverage, without having to buy a new light system or extraction kit. You also avoid incurring any significant additional energy costs!

Is there a particular size of light system I should use with a Linear Light Mover?

You can use any size of light system with a Linear Light Mover as long as your grow space has enough room to comfortably accommodate the output. The bigger the system is the more light you'll get to plants, making 1000 Watt units a particularly effective option. Normally a 1000 Watt light produces too much heat for one area, but by periodically moving the unit this does not represent a problem.

What is a Robo-Stik? Do I need to use one?

Fixing a Robo-Stik to a Linear Light Mover further stabilises and supports your light when in action. This simple looking yet ingenious metal rod is horizontally attached across the motor unit to give you two points from which to hang a light rather than one. Consequently the light remains in the same position whilst moving along the rail instead of occasionally rotating as can sometimes be the case. Using a Robo-Stik with a Linear Light Mover ensures that your plants all get to enjoy the same amount of light and comes highly recommended.

First things first

When you are growing with soil it is well worth preparing in advance. Some people like to treat the soil the day prior to transplantation, but even a few hours beforehand can be of great benefit. The relationship between a plant and its soil, and the way it absorbs nutrients is a complex matter – all you should focus on for now is that any nutrient content we provide needs to be broken down by the soil to be accessible to the plants.

The first step in preparing your soil involves leaving about 4 litres of water to stand for a while, before adding 5ml of Hygrozyme and a couple of drops of Superthrive. Hygrozyme is an enzyme-based product that helps the plant perform many functions – including the absorption of nutrients. Superthrive is essentially a stress relief tonic, and should be added into the mix to counter pains your plants inevitably encounter during the transplanting process.

After preparing the solution, fill the pots with a quality soil like BioBizz Allmix and add some solution to it. Here you are aiming to “bring the soil to life” so that your plants enter the best possible situation. Allmix comes pre fertilised, meaning no feed is required, and it also features a bit of Perlite to help with aeration. Often people will put a layer of clay pebbles or gravel at the bottom of the pot for improved drainage, but such measures are not necessary when using the specially blended Allmix soil.

When to transplant

No definitive time exists at which point you should move your young plants on. However when the roots become visible and start showing out of your Jiffy Pellets or Root Riot Cubes, it is best to transplant them into a pot sooner rather than later. If there is too much root mass showing, the light and conditions in the propagator can potentially cause rot related problems. So as soon as the roots are showing, pop them into a small pot.

Transplanting

Whenever you transplant a cutting or seedling, the primary concern has to be not to damage the roots, especially in the case of very young plants. Try not to touch the root zone – an extremely delicate and easily damaged area if ever there was one. At this stage in the plants development, the root zone arguably represents your most crucial consideration.

Consequently, in a 13cm pot it is better to make a larger than required hole in your prepared soil to comfortably accommodate the root zone. Disturbing the soil around the bottom and sides of the hole reduces the risk of damaging roots when positioning a Jiffy Pellet or Root Riot Cube with your plant and also allows them to easily spread out.

Carefully place a Jiffy Pellet or Root Riot Cube containing your plant in the hole and gently cover using a layer of soil. A lot of people water the plants in to their new environment, but you don’t need to bother given that the soil has been well prepared. The soil should be moist, since you want the roots to search outwards for water.

Potting on

As soon as the plant has established itself in a small pot, you will need to pot it on. Certain plants, like chillies, benefit from being potted on numerous times in ever increasing sized pots, but on most occasions growers take their plants straight from the small 13cm pot to a final 6.5 litre square pot.

Knowing when to pot on plants that are in small pots is difficult – especially when you try to make an assessment without removing them from the pots and causing a disturbance. Examining the bottom of the pot for roots starting to escape from the holes remains a recommended method. Keep regular checks up too because getting the timing right is important. Transplant too soon and the plant will not have benefitted fully from being in the small pot, leave it too late and the plant will have potentially become root bound – a precursor for poor performance.

The principle behind potting on is the same as the initial transplantation. Make a larger than required hole in the prepared soil and disturb the soil around the hole to make it easier for the roots to spread. Then gently squeeze and remove the pot whilst easing the plant out holding the base of the stem. You should be able to slide the pot off and avoid inflicting any damage on the root zone.

Some growers like to manipulate the root zone before potting on. Although this can be beneficial when plants are a little rootbound, avoid doing so if roots appear strong, healthy and well dispersed.

Again it is wise not to water the plants. The soil has been suitably prepared already and will therefore encourage the roots to spread out and become accustomed to their new home. In the final pots the root zone for each plant can now properly develop and help spur on future growth.

Aftercare

Transplanting and potting on can be a stressful time for plants. Everything has been done to make the transition as smooth as possible, but they can still show signs of stress after completing the process. It is worth monitoring them for a few days, and if the plant seems to be suffering, apply a little tonic with a Superthrive solution. Several days afterwards the plant will appear healthy and settled in its new environment. You should also be aware that it is beneficial to allow the plant to become settled over a week or so before switching to a flowering light cycle.

The humble disco light, often taken for granted

Light really is an amazing energy.

It travels at a constant, rapid speed through a vacuum (such as outer space) and just a bit slower through a material media (like our atmosphere or any other gas).

Light travel times:

So just how fast does light travel…

3 x 10₈ metres per second, or

300,000,000 metres per second

Also expressed as:

One end to the other takes light 8.3 minutes

300,000 kilometres per second

671,000,000 miles per hour

186,000 miles per second

Interesting journey times for light:

Moon to Earth - 1.3 seconds

Sun to Earth - 8.3 minutes

Voyager 1 to Earth - 16.2 hours

Alpha Centauri to Earth - 4.37 years

Nearest next Galaxy to Earth - 25,000 years

Andromeda Galaxy to Earth - 2,500,000 years

Electro-magnetic radiation.

Light is electromagnetic wave radiation.

Full of colour - light waves

Sound is electromagnetic wave radiation.

Cosmic waves are electromagnetic wave radiation.

The only real difference between these elements is that at certain frequencies and wavelengths we can see the wave energy, whilst at others we can hear the waves (they register in the audible frequency range). Some waves have frequencies and wavelengths so low the waves simply pass straight through us (like cosmic waves), whereas micro waves have such a high frequency they cook us.

Getting back to light…

Light still remains full of secrets, but these continue to be unravelled through time.

We know it is electro-magnetic wave radiation, and as such behaves and performs like any other electro-magnetic wave, being affected by the same phenomenon and physics.

We know there are particles of energy associated with light called quanta or photons. These particles of energy and the way that they work and interact with things can only be explained by the law of small things – or quantum mechanics.

For the plant growing community, interest centres round the light wave itself and what influences the wave – e.g. loss of signal/light with distance, reflection, refraction.

Light will be affected by the following phenomena when moving through a gas such as the air, or when hitting a surface.

An example of refraction

Refraction – The ability for light to bend due to differences in the temperature and humidity, or other factors, through larger layers of air. This one doesn’t really concern indoor light users too much.

Diffraction – The ability for light to bend around objects in the way. Light isn’t as good as sound at this, since it registers at a much higher frequency and shorter wavelength. Yet this does still help partly explain why heat shields work very well.

Reflection – The ability for light to reflect off different surfaces, producing a reflected signal.

An example of reflection

Where reflectors are concerned, the main objective is to create a good spread of light with uniformity and intensity over the area.

You could argue that the larger the reflector and the more reflector surface area the light hits, the more signal is lost. On the other hand, if the reflector is directing the light down to plants rather than letting it escape – you have a very effective unit.

For a reflector with a closed end, or one that produces a downward block of light, select a higher position than you would for an open-ended unit.
Remember light is heat.

The awesome open-ended Adjusta-Shade

Open-ended reflectors are ideal for moving closer to your plants because they often suffer less from heat problems. This proves ideal when you have a small room or when limited headroom.

If lights are to be situated high up in a tall tropical greenhouse with trees, then closed ended reflectors that project the light signal in a downward beam work best.

Open or closed, the reality is that our very best reflectors perform very similarly – even if they need to be hung at unique heights or used slightly differently.

Attenuation – This is the loss of energy or attenuation of the signal. Causes include light lost with distance, light lost as the wave passes through a gas or liquid, and light lost when it hits and reflects off of different surfaces.

The journey of light is limited underwater

Attenuation occurs due to resonance of the gas molecules and due to the absorption and scattering of signal. Therefore as the light wave passes through the air, every molecule hit whilst it moves forward, depletes energy. In water, which has greater density and more molecules, and where there more absorption and scattering of signal takes place, the light will travel much less distance.

The type of surface the light hits determines how much light is lost/attenuated and how much is reflected.

Illustration of the Inverse Square Law

The Inverse Square Law indicates the light loss over distances through the atmosphere.

With no natural light, the optimum distance between a 600 watt light and a crop is about 2 and a half foot. This will produce fantastic results from strong, light loving plants during fruiting. However younger plants need a space of approximately 4 foot, or even higher with very young plants and lower light species.

For trees grown indoors that are exposed to some natural light, like date palms, a 400 or 600 watt light 4 to 6 five foot away (depending on light requirements) leads to the most successful outcome.

Note:

Frequency and Wavelength.

If you picture an energy wave as a piece of wavy string.

Frequency is the number of rises and falls per second.

Wavelength is the distance of one cycle, i.e. one rise and one fall.

λ = Wavelength in metres

C = propagation velocity metres/second (speed of light)

F = Frequency, cycles per second

λ = C/F

F = C/λ

C = F x λ

When the summer arrives and temperatures inevitably soar, all kinds of insects threaten to invade your grow room. Unsurprisingly then, keeping up a “5 Day Bug Check” proves more important now than at any other point in the year! You should scan your plants for physical damage (e.g. blemishes on leaves) as well as for the actual pests themselves, and upon detection try and correctly identify the responsible culprit(s). This will help you establish the right action to take!

A dreaded Spider Mite

Spider Mites

How do I know if I’ve got a problem?

Look out for small yellow speckling on the top surface of leaves – a sure fire sign mites have been feeding. Undersides of leaves may also contain tiny white dots that are either the mites and/or their eggs. Webbing occurs in the latter stages of an infestation.

Top choice

Recommended action:

To control and eliminate spider mites during a long day vegetative cycle, we recommend using Natural Predators. For a short day flowering/fruiting cycle predators are not effective – you’ll instead need to treat plants with Nite Nite Spider Mite, Spider Mite Control or Pyrethrum 5 EC. Follow manufacturer instructions and always conduct a final spraying of nothing but water to clear off residue and dead bugs. Completely remove damaged leaves in both scenarios and keep temperatures down to slow the rate of spider mite breeding.

Thrip Larva

Thrip Larvae

How do I know if I’ve got a problem?

Thrips are most harmful to plants at the larval stage. Search for silvery grey trails along leaf tops and small black deposits (their excretion) on the opposite side. The larvae feed by rasping the leaf surface, leading to distorted growth and loss of colour.

Recommended action:

Take off infected leaves and apply Pyrethrum 5 EC as a foliar feed. This will successfully eliminate Thrip Larvae in vegetative and early flowering growth. We can also source natural Thrip Predators if preferred – call the technical team on 0845 345 5176 for further advice.

Fungus Gnats

Fungus Gnats

How do I know if I’ve got a problem?

Fungus Gnats are quite a common grow room problem and can normally be identified by the presence of small, slow moving black flies. Yet it is the larva that upset your plants, eating roots and hindering overall development.

Gnat Off

Recommended action:

Lowering humidity and the water level in substrate often does enough to kill fungus gnat larva. For more serious issues, add Fungus Gnat Off to the root zone. Placing sticky yellow traps around your room also helps capture the flies and allows for early identification of the problem. Alternatively we can source the 100% effective predator nematodes – call our technical team on 0845 345 5176 for further advice.

Leaf Miner

Leaf Miner

How do I know if I’ve got a problem?

Leaf Miner larva may appear similar to Thrip Larva, but they move much more slowly and represent less of a risk. Living within the leaf itself, you are only really likely to notice foliar damage as opposed to seeing the actual larva. Leaf Miner larva typically causes colour loss and leaf imperfections from feeding.

Recommended action:

The vigorous growth rates of plants under HID lights means that they will often outgrow any damage leaf miner larva are able to inflict. A good spray of Pyrethrum 5 EC promises to deal with the problem.